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Talked to Ernesto for the first time in a billion years day before last. Gone forever the cocky swagger & arrogant banter of last summer. It was very sad. He looked disoriented, a wee bit lost as he unloaded electric guitar and amps from his ancient beige Impala.

Then he came by the store to borrow my broom. "The tourists have left me many presents," he told me. "I'm going to donate them to the less fortunate." He nodded towards one of the tasteful cement garbage urns where drunks were rummaging for breakfast.

"Hard times all over," said I.

Ernesto swiped a hand across his forehead. "I am working in a warehouse now, five days a week. Unloading boxes."

"That's tough."

"I'm a musician. That's all I know how to do. But I'm not making any money at it now, and a man has to eat."

I stifled the impulse to hum a few bars of Leonard Cohen Has Taken a Day Job. Instead I told him, "You're a musician and a good one. Honestly, it's not you. It's Monterey. It's been hit very hard by the price of gas. People just aren't coming here anymore. And when they do come, they don't spend money."

Ernesto did the sour mouth thing. "Business bad for you too?"

"We're tracking to last year. Barely. Mostly on the strength of our Internet sales. But we're not showing growth and in a new business, that's bad. We can't leave – we have another year on our lease. But I'll tell you, as soon as that year is up..."

But Ernesto wasn't listening. "I don't know what happened," he complained. "One minute I was young. The next minute, I'm an old man."

I might have been more sympathetic except that earlier that morning I'd had to stave off my own mini-meltdown. I'm almost embarrassed to write about it here since it was kind of like a Lifetime, Television For Women version of Babe the Pig happening at – of all places – the Monterey County Fair where once again this year we have a little concession booth.

Last year, we did very well at the Monterey County Fair. This year we are doing no sales whatsoever which is partly due to the weather – unrelentingly gray & miserable – and partly due to the idiots who planned the event for the same weekend the classic Ferraris and Austin Martins make their annual pilgrimmage to Pebble Beach. A backbreaking amount of work and we will be lucky to break even on booth rental and insurance. So it goes. I've been waking up at 4am to get all the circus work out of the way before scuttling down to the store at 10 so that Ben can man the Fair booth. Robin is officially a Lost Boy this week and anybody reading this should feel free to report us to Child Protective Services.

"It's the bunny championships this morning," Ben told me. "You should go."

"I don't want to see the bunny championships," I said. "I have to much stuff to do –"

"You should go anyway," said Ben and literally wrestled the van keys into my hand and pushed me out the door.

Rabbits are my totem animals. You might say I'm obsessed. My first husband was actually named Hare and although I don't think that's the reason I married him, we all know the subconscious moves in mysterious ways.

Maybe it was because I went through the wrong gate to get into the fair and thus found myself on the empty midway in swirling gray mists straight out of a John Carpenter movie. There's no buzz kill quite like seeing the tacky daylight face of a place where people go to have fun in the dark. Anyway, the bunnies were not quite as adorable as I remembered them, and so I started wandering through the bunkhouse, looking at the other animals. Shorn, nervous looking sheep. Oblivious goats. Heifers and steers, lying dazed in their stalls beneath anatomical charts eschewing the more conventional nomenclature of muscle and bone for roast, steak and tri-tip.

And then there were the pigs.

Even as I watched, one of the pigs managed to nudge open its gate and escape on to the path, leading its apple-cheeked 4-H guardians on a merry chase. I watched in fascination. Where did it think it could go? It squealed and dodged; the 4-H'ers beat it with their crooks, trying to steer it. What was going on in the piggy's mind? Did it have some dim presentiment that however many times its keepers filled its trough to overflowing with feed, love was not a part of their calculations, that the final answer was always bacon? Did the pig have something resembling consciousness? And if it did, what was the point of its consciousness? For that matter, what was the point of my consciousness, what was the point of any consciousness, wasn't consciousness always a trap? Maybe those crazy people walking down the street, bargaining with invisible overlords and scratching themselves had it exactly right. Maybe schizophrenia isn't a biochemical dysfunction at all but a reasoned response to the true Cthulu-like nature of a universe where there's no true freedom, only varying degrees of license –

Danger, Will Robinson.

I pulled myself back from that edge. But it left me in a strange, distracted state.
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Ernesto’s turf war with the Bozos is escalating. He wrote a long complaint to the Cannery Row Company: by using pre-recorded karaoke music for her extended jazz sets, Fumani is violating intellectual copyright agreements. This is true, of course, but the letter made me suspicious: Ernesto is not such a simple man of the soil as he presents himself. More likely he’s the scion of some rich Peruvian landowner who exploited peasants. He was sent to university in the United States where he fell in with the wrong crowd (sex, drugs, rock ‘n roll) and so never got around to applying to law school.

Ernesto’s band is called Friends of the Andes. On weekdays they squat under a tent in the middle of Steinbeck Plaza. Sometimes they play music. Most of the time they stand around smoking. This is a pain in the ass. Retail etiquette and the science of sales dictate that I have music playing in the store at all times, Alison Krauss in the mornings and Cuban fusion in the late afternoons. But it’s hard to monitor the music flow if you’re never sure when “I’d rather be a hammer than a nail,” is going to erupt outside your doors. Alison Krauss’s twangy soprano makes for a singularly disturbing cognitive dissonance played out against the Pipes of Pan. I’m afraid that potential customers will start having epileptic seizures in my aisles. Or slip through some vortex into a black hole in time and space. Either way, they won’t be buying hot sauce from me and that’s what it’s all about.

So yesterday, sales were going like gangbusters until 2 PM or so when the fog drifted in. The hotter it is in the valley, the grayer and more miserable it is here by the shore. Financial insecurity, of course, is my constant companion. We stood on the balustrade overlooking the sea wall and watched the fog come in together. Over by Mount Tauro the sun was still shining brightly and this gave the immediate scene a kind of weirdness, as though we were trapped inside a bottle with thick glass walls.

Ernesto sees me and wanders over. He offers me his limp fish hand to shake.

(When I complain about this later to Ben, Ben tells me, “That’s how all South Americans shake hands. They save the heavy digit action for firing submachine guns.”)

“So, you making good money?” he asks.

“We’re doing okay.”

“You’re minting it!”

“Well, not that okay. But we’re breaking even which is where I wanted to be at the end of the first year.”

“Breaking even,” sighed Ernesto, shaking his head. “That’s shit. Man, if I just broke even I’d be in big trouble.”

That’s because you, sir, are the musical equivalent of a migrant farm worker, I longed to tell him. Whereas I am a capitalist ever increasing the value of my assets. But I shut up.

“Big trouble,” Ernesto repeated. “You pay the bills, you gotta have something left over. So you like those weekend guys and their Muzak?”

I smile and shrug.

“You could write a letter and complain. You could write a letter to the Cannery Row Company.”

I smile again and make a vague motion with my head. Let Ernesto interpret that any way he likes.

“Breaking even,” says Ernesto. He sighs again. “Anyway I got a business proposition for you. Invest in the Friends of the Andes.”

“Why would I want to do that?”

“We’ll put your name on our next CD. In the acknowledgements. They see your name on the CD, they come into your store. Become a patron of the arts! You think anyone will remember you fifty years from now? They remember us. They remember art. But if you support us, they remember you too, like they remember Lorenzo Di Medici –“

Now this was the lamest hustle I had ever heard. For a moment I thought he was joking. But no, no, he was serious. He was calculating. This was the surest way, he figured, to tunnel through personal insecurities and get inside my wallet.

For a moment I wished I had a penis. I would whip it out, I would piss in his face.

Instead I just laughed. “I already support the arts, Ernesto,” I said. “My art.”

I turned around and went back inside my store.

The rest of the day was like pulling teeth. People would poke their heads inside the store, take one look around and then quickly retreat. I figured it was me. I was pathetic. I was personally repulsive. I was not a patron of the arts. When I did make a sale, I figured it was because the person buying the hot sauce or ceramic chili kitsch was blind to spiritual nuance. A man in an NRA teeshirt flew into a fury over the Bush cards I’d made a centerpiece to SLOW Burn’s Tribute to the Election. “You’re a Bush basher!” he screamed. He stalked out, sputtering about complaints to management.

I am management, you dumb Charleton Heston-loving fuck! I wanted to scream. But this was to be a day of repressed come-backs.

Then around 8 or so a kid in his early twenties came in. I recognized him. He’d been in before. In fact he’d spent the better part of an afternoon here once, wandering up and down the aisles, looking at the shelves with the rapt attention Leo Castelli might have brought to his first perusal of Jackson Pollock canvases. This time he brought a whole battalion of friends including a very cute girlfriend who was obviously bored and kept sticking her tongue in his ear trying to distract him. But he was not to be dissuaded. He knew all our sales pitches by heart.

“This is the hottest hot sauce in the world,” he said, picking up Mad Dog 357. “But see, that’s a technicality. If it were hotter, then it would be a food additive.”

The girlfriend’s eyes were doing the glazed doughnut thing.

“This place is better than Disneyland,” said the kid. His eyes were glowing. He wasn’t joking. “This is the coolest place on the planet, man.”

He left an hour later. He only bought $20 worth of sauce, but that $20 got us up over the $400 mark. We’d met our sales goals for the day.
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Pissy mood these past few days. Morituri te salutamus, variations on that theme. Part of it’s the weather – hot dry inland air buffeting up against cool, moist air near the sea surface to produce that thick, impenetrable coastal fog. I don’t do well without full spectrum sunlight. Part of it’s the early April deathwatch. Three years ago, on April 1, my mother died. Ten years ago, on April 4, Tom Mandel died. Tom was my best friend, and my mother was – well. My mother. The only other real voice in the internal dialogue for many, many years since I grew up fatherless and essentially without any real family.

This year my fifty-second birthday coincides with Easter and it would be nice to think of that as a rebirth. But I’m afraid I’m too street smart to fall for cheap symbolism. There’s no rebirth. There’s only death and superstition.

In other news, the Cannery Row Company has finally got hip to isolationism. World music is just so nineties. These days we’re all hunkering down in our bunkers, watching CNN. Pass the Faith Popcorn, please! The condor has passed. In keeping with the times, management informed Ernesto, our resident Pipes-of-Pan impresario that he’d now be splitting weekends with a mellow jazz combo. Ernesto did not take the news well. He wandered into the store several times to complain.

"That bad disco shit," he muttered. "People don’t want to hear that."

More like bad wedding and bar mitzvah shit, I thought. But I didn’t correct him. I just nodded and smiled.

"And they give me Saturdays! Saturdays, you know, I got the band. I got to split the take. Sundays I did solo. I got to keep it all."

It’s almost painful to watch Ernesto do the one man band thing. He’s got a kind of harness that straps the Pipes of Pan to his mouth, and then he’s got the guitar strapped around him which he plays with his right hand, reaching over to a battered looking synthesizer with his left from time to time to adjust the drum-rolls or the fake brass crescendos. He’s very talented, of course. But it’s a little like watching a dog break dance.

The new Sunday band is called Son-set jazz. That’s how they spell it. Son-set. It’s a father from Fresno and his two sons. Bozo, Bozo Junior and Spawn. Bozo Senior does keyboard, Bozo Junior mans the synthesizer. The youngest does drums. "Yeah, Spawn was always my little pot banger," Bozo Senior tells me between sets. I’m taking a smoke break. We’re standing outside my store, shivering. I see the way he eyes my cigarette.

"Want one?" I ask.

"Oh. Say. Thanks. So how’s business?"

"Business has been better," I allow.

"Is the music too loud?" he asks anxiously.

"No, no. The music is good. You don’t know how grateful I am to get a day off from Ernesto. I mean, I like Ernesto, he’s really talented but when tall dark strangers in your dreams start singing, ‘I’d rather be a hammer than a nail –‘ you know it’s time to listen to something else –"

I’m babbling, I thought. Bozo Senior was pretending to listen but I knew that fixed smile and intense eye contact. Here was a man who got stoned a lot during the seventies.

"You taught yourself to play, didn’t you?" I said.

He laughed. "Am I really that bad?"

"Not at all –"

"Yeah, I taught myself to play. With a little help from my garage band friends and their seemingly bottomless dope stashes."

While the band took breaks, Bozo Senior’s girlfriend plied the crowd with bad Dinah Washington imitations. She is a stunningly beautiful black woman with amazing stage presence but a spectacularly off-key voice. "Memories always start around midnight, around midnight," she croons. "Haven't got the heart to stand those memories – "

Abruptly my eyes fill with tears.

Later on during my next smoke break, we make eye contact across the plaza and she comes over to introduce herself. "I’m Anaconda," she says.

"I’m Patrizia," I smile.

"What a lovely name!" she says, flashing her perfect smile. She works hard.

"Are you really the daughter of a Pentecostal preacher?" I ask.

"How did you know that?" Momentarily alarmed.

"Bozo told me."

"Well, yes. Yes, I am. I grew up singing in the church choir. I sang before I could walk."

"Are you still?"

"The daughter of a Pentecostal preacher?"

"No. A Pentecostal."

"I –" She hesitates. "I’ve rethought some of the church’s precepts. I wear pants. I wear make-up." And you live with a guy who smokes a shitload of reefer, I thought. "But my relationship with God is still the same. I love God. I believe God loves me."

What I really wanted to ask her was: how can you believe in God and Thelonious Monk at the same time? Doesn’t Jesus say something about how impossible it is to serve two masters?

But instead I nodded and smiled and backtracked the conversation into more neutral territory. And we were both relieved when, a few seconds later, it ended.
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We got our first Internet order from someone who isn’t either related to us or knows us well enough to feel sorry for us. Pretty darn exciting if you ask me.

Otherwise, the Pro-Am fallout never made it down to Cannery Row but the weekend went okay, constant dribble of customers at around ten bucks a pop. We cleared a little over $500. Very cold but the sun was shining. The ocean, at high tide, lapped almost to the seawall and I worried that some of the tourist children cavorting carelessly on the rocks might get swept away by a maverick wave.

Around noon, during a lull, I had just figured out a major accounting glitch that had had been plaguing me for weeks and was furiously paging back through the Quickbooks accounts, retroactively applying it, when Ernesto stumbled into the store. He offered me his hand and flashed a smile. Hand like the proverbial dead fish.

“Will you do me a favor?” Ernesto asked.

“That depends,” I said.

I looked Ernesto up on the web once. At the height of the world music thing, he was actually pretty well regarded, traveling all over the country to perform at festivals. This was in the late eighties and early nineties. Then the world music thing fell apart.

Ernesto gestured to outside the door where a little cart sat with his canopy and his instruments. “Will you keep an eye on that for me for a while?”

“No can do, Ernesto,” I said. “I have to keep an eye on my customers.”

“Just for a little,” he said. “Just while I park the car –“ He glanced over at his maroon Nova. The maroon Nova had seen better days, when it wasn’t being stranded in a red zone alongside of which a very happy and triumphant meter maid had just pulled up, reaching for her ticket book.

“Holy shit!” said Ernesto.

And he just ran.

Leaving me with the cart.

I thought of dumping the instruments one by one over the seawall. Maybe they’d hit one of the tourist children on the head. This would not be good for business.

Instead I dragged the cart rather laboriously behind my sign. One of its wheels was almost flat. The entire thing lurched precariously to one side. It was a bitch to maneuver.

I was partly pissed and partly bemused. About a month ago, Ernesto had come into my store one day and hit me up for a hundred bucks so he could lure some real musicians down to the plaza to play with him. “A real salsa band,” he said. “Good for business!”

I shook my head. “Wrong time of year, Ernesto. It’s too cold for people to sit out in the square and listen to music.”
What I didn’t tell him is that we were struggling to make the overhead and anyway, even if we weren’t, I have my own band of starving musicians to play Lady Bountiful to. Plus I am really sick of El Condor Passa.

“I thought you went to Miami in the wintertime, Ernesto,” I said and he sighed, his face lost the happy mask just for a second.

“Not this year, baby. Not this year. This is a bad year.”

“How do you make money anyway? If you don’t mind me asking. Do people give you donations for playing?”

“No, I sell CD’s,” he said. “But this year, people aren’t buying. I stand out there, I play for six hours yesterday. I sell two CD’s. Sixteen dollars for six hours work.”

Yeah, yeah, times are tough all over, I’m thinking, but the thing is I kind of like Ernesto and he really is a talented musician. Sometimes towards the end of the afternoon when he breaks away from Brazil and the Shadow of Your Smile and begins riffing jazz or Delta blues, he makes the sunset really magical.

“You know if you want, you can give me a bunch of your CD’s and I’ll sell them for you out of the store. I won’t charge you a consignment fee.”

He flashed me a mournful smile. His teeth are not in great shape. “No, no. It’s okay. But, you know, I hate this stuff they want me to play. I want to play real music.”

Nobody wants you to play that other stuff either, I think but I forebear utterance. And, besides, that’s not exactly true. The tourists love that shit. “You’re so lucky,” they tell me when they come into the store. “The ocean, the beautiful music –“

When Ernesto wanders back an hour or so later, I’m having a mini-stampede at the cash register so I have an excuse not to listen to his apology. “This has not been a good day,” he tries to tell me. “Everything that could go wrong went wrong.” But I just flash him a smile, go back to the guy in the Raiders jacket: “See the difference between Marie Sharp’s and Susie’s is that the Susie’s has a lot of vinegar. And the vinegar traps the heat in your mouth. But the Marie Sharp’s is actually hotter –“

After Ernesto leaves, I close one of the doors and turn Alison Krauss up loud on the CD player.

(And this would be the natural ending point if I were writing a David Sedaris-type short story. But this ain’t no short story. This is my life!)

An hour or so later, a well-dressed blonde woman staggered into the store. Younger than me, but her skin had the leathery look of a vintage alcoholic. She was very drunk. “Hot sauce!” she cries in a deep Texas accent. “I just love hot sauce. I’ll buy every bottle of chipotle you got!”

“You don’t want to do that,” I said. The store was quite crowded at this point. The other customers were trying to ignore her.

“Baby,” sang Alison. “Now that I’ve found you –“

The drunken woman stood transfixed. “Who is that?”

“What?”

“The music. Who’s singing?”

She was having a Moment. Her and Alison Krauss.

“That’s Alison Krauss,” I said.

“Alison Krauss,” she repeated. “Alison Krauss.” She looked as though she was about to break into tears. “I’ve never heard anything so beautiful in my life. Sell me that CD.”

What? No, no. I’m sorry. That’s not possible –“

“Why?” she said. “I’ve got money.”

She opened her purse and began pulling out hundred dollar bills. I felt like I was trapped in some horrible contemporary remake of Butterfield 8.

“You should put your money away,” I said. There were big red blotches on the bills where she had touched them, and then I noticed that the tip of her Fuck You finger – the one right next to the finger wearing the Diamond as Big as the Ritz – was practically sheared off.

“Oh my God! I’m bleeding,” she said. “I cut myself on that broken glass. That bastard –“

“You need to see a doctor,” I said. “Do you want me to call you a taxi? You need to go to the emergency room and get that taken care of.”

“That bastard,” she said. “You’re a sweet little thing to get all worried about me. Sure you won’t sell me that CD?”

“Put your money away before something happens to it,” I said.

“Got a band-aid, sugar?”

“No, but here –“ I fashioned a bandage from some cut-up paper-towels, taped it on her finger. “That is not going to hold,” I said. “You really need to get yourself to a doctor as soon as possible.”

“Write the name of that album down for me, honey,” she said. “Is there a CD store somewhere around here? And, here, why don’t you just take this –“ She tried to shove a blood-stained C-note my way. I had joined her and Alison Krauss in that Moment. The sun was shining, there were daisies on the grass and any minute now, a unicorn was going to wander over and proposition us: say, you babes look like you know where I can get some swinging, three-way, hardcore action –

“I can’t take your money,” I repeated over and over again. And finally got her out the front door.

Walked back to the counter.

Whereupon all the other customers in the store started to clap.

“You handled that really well,” said a man in an Eddie Bauer windbreaker. “Here. I’ll take three bottles of Marie Sharp’s. . And do you have a web site you sell from? I’ll take a card.”
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About a billion degrees out and (fortunately) windless: for the past three days a fire has been burning out of control at the old Fort Ord which is five miles away from where I live but a mere mile and a half as the pelican flies across water from my little shop. The fire was supposed to be a "controlled burn." The idea was to get rid of some of the dense chaparral and stunted trees growing up out of the old entrenchment sites, the better to clear the way for "affordable" housing developments. The military left a lot of environmental hazards behind when they cleared out twelve years ago although I’ve always been a bit unclear about the exact nature of those hazards – Saddam Hussein’s weapons of mass destruction perhaps? Anyway, when the vegetation is gone, the hazards will be easier to deactivate. The houses will sell for upwards of half a million dollars apiece. That’s the definition of affordable in these parts. The fire jumped its boundaries about an hour after it was started and more than a thousand people had to be relocated to motels out of the smoke range. The military was very clear: they were not being evacuated. That’s the definition of control.

Since it was a million degrees in the sunny side of the plaza, Ernesto wandered apologetically into the store. "I’m dying of heat. Do you mind if we set up in the shade right outside your store?"

"Hi Ernesto," I said. "Do what you gotta do."

Ernesto brightened. "Hey, you know my name."

"Sure," I said. "You’re a very talented musician. And I know you hate playing El Condor Pasa almost as much as I hate listening to it."

Ernesto sighed. "I know, I know, but that’s what people want to hear. Sometimes, I’m just rude. People ask, I say, ‘Lady, get with the times. The condor went bye-bye. He off on long vacation with the dinosaur. Sayonara Big Bird.’ But you know, he always come back."

In other news, this week was science camp. When your child attends a small, parent-run charter school, you get very involved in school activities. This is how I ended up as a counselor for two and a half days, chaperoning a group of ISM girlies in the wilderness. Now I’m a mother of sons, I don’t have very much experience with little girls so the whole experience played out kind of like an anthropological field trip for me. I was simply blown away by the difference in the levels of maturity between the single eleven year old sixth grader and Robin’s two little fourth grade classmates. The littler girls were very interested in where the animals lived and how they went to the bathroom whereas Kirsten, the sixth grader, was mostly interested in how she could escape into the bathroom so she could apply her mascara without any of the resident adults finding out.

In another group there was a sixth grader named Francesca, a perky little thing with budding breasts and well-developed hair-tossing skills. The last night of camp was skit night and when Robin’s group got up to perform, Francesca screamed, "Robin, Robin," like she was one of the girls in A Hard Day’s Night screaming for the Beatles. It was hard for me to comprehend.

Then on Friday night after we got home, she called him twice. On the phone.

And again the next night.

"Why is Francesca calling you?" I asked.

Robin shrugged. "She wanted to tell me that she thinks Ed likes her."

Ben and I exchanged looks. "Uh oh, the old make-him-jealous-with-another-guy routine," said Ben.

It’s very clear that Francesca has a crush on Robin. Now Robin is almost unbelievably handsome – his eyelashes seem to grow another half inch every day, his face has the perfect, preternatural beauty of a Renaissance page boy lit by moon light – but c’mon, he’s nine years old. And somewhat emotionally immature for his age. In fact the stray peepee accident in the middle of the night is not altogether an unfamiliar event at Casa Trumble-Air-Ucchio. But the girl is determined to fixate on him. As I obsess about my own coup de foudre, it’s very clear there’s some Big Cosmic Insight lurking here somewhere, though one that I’m too overheated and sweaty to tease out.
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The head Pipes of Pan guy’s name is Ernesto. Actually he plays the guitar. Ernesto’s become our new best friend. He pops into the shop between sets, offering helpful marketing tips – "Ya gotta build out that back area, man. Needs more stuff" – and relating amusing anecdotes about life on the Pipes of Pan circuit. When the rain starts in Monterey, he packs up his gear and heads for Miami.

"If the rain starts," I qualify balefully but Ernesto is not one to worry much about global warming.

"Miami, she’s a real party town," he says, chuckling and rubbing his hands together.

"Why not just stay there?" I ask hopefully.

"I got business here," he says.

I can only assume he deals dope on the side.

Ernesto’s a pretty decent guitar player, and it’s just possible he hates El Condor Pasa more than I do. He wears his sunglasses all the time. Without them he has that crazed, slightly cross-eyed look that was the epitome of high beauty to the ancient Mayans but these days indicate a gap in MediCaid coverage.

"Is that poor man blind?" asked a sweet little old lady after Ernesto left the store.

"Oh, you mean the sunglasses," I say. "Isn’t it odd how that goes with musical talent? Ray Charles, Stevie Wonder and now, Ernesto. We do what we can to take care of him."

She buys a pair of adorable flamingo salt and pepper shakers.
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The Pipes of Pan are an instrument of the devil. Particularly in the hands of Bolivians playing El Condor Passa.

Took the dogs to the park yesterday morning and threw the green ball for them for an hour and a half. It’s odd that with so much on my plate right now, I’m totally obsessed with doing right by the dogs. The kid is a barefoot savage in rags whose hair is so badly in need of cutting that it hangs down over his eyes, the husband is a personable ne’er do well who has started another novel in the back room, the house is in shambles, my underwear has holes, but it’s the dogs who need my attention.

Brilliant day in the Veterans Park meadow high on the hill. A caravan of campers rendezvousing for a family reunion. They gather from points south and east. A guy with a Brooklyn accent pumps me for info about the blackout.

"You picked the right time to leave," I tell him. "The power’s still not back entirely. I can’t imagine anybody’s having much fun."

He laughs, then reaches for his cell phone. He’s a lawyer, dickering with insurance policies. "Definitely does not cover spoilage," he tells the phone. "Nothing in the contract says anything about what happens when the juice goes down for a sustained period of time. We’re safe."

The dogs scamper. Legolas chases the green tennis ball every time I throw it but he doesn’t seem to understand that the point of the game is to bring it back. He prefers showing it to me in his mouth and then leading me on a merry chase around the field. Hey! It’s exercise. I haven’t ridden my bike in a month.

Back at sea level, I go back to the store and paint some more. Today is the woodwork on the two display cabinets and the white wall in back of the cash register, plus the sponging on of the pink on the peach. It occurs to me in the midst of lacquering one of the display cabinets a pale sea-foam green, that the wood is really in horrible shape and that previous tenant Mike Montana – the genial owner of a flock of Christmas ornament stores throughout the Monterey Peninsula – would never have bothered to have carted it out of his store. Therefore I am an idiot to have paid him $350 for his fixtures. I will go broke, my child will never be able to afford another haircut and the dogs will starve because I am a Bad Businesswoman. With the new stippling of pink, the walls no longer look anything like a Mexican whorehouse. Now they look like the lair of some demented Tijuana brujo
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Meanwhile on the plaza outside the Bolivian musicians are setting up to serenade the tourists with yet another afternoon medley of tunes featuring the Pipes of Pan.

What the hell. The $350 also covered mirrors and glass shelving. Buying them new at Home Depot would have set me back six hundred bucks or more.

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