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The head Pipes of Pan guy’s name is Ernesto. Actually he plays the guitar. Ernesto’s become our new best friend. He pops into the shop between sets, offering helpful marketing tips – "Ya gotta build out that back area, man. Needs more stuff" – and relating amusing anecdotes about life on the Pipes of Pan circuit. When the rain starts in Monterey, he packs up his gear and heads for Miami.

"If the rain starts," I qualify balefully but Ernesto is not one to worry much about global warming.

"Miami, she’s a real party town," he says, chuckling and rubbing his hands together.

"Why not just stay there?" I ask hopefully.

"I got business here," he says.

I can only assume he deals dope on the side.

Ernesto’s a pretty decent guitar player, and it’s just possible he hates El Condor Pasa more than I do. He wears his sunglasses all the time. Without them he has that crazed, slightly cross-eyed look that was the epitome of high beauty to the ancient Mayans but these days indicate a gap in MediCaid coverage.

"Is that poor man blind?" asked a sweet little old lady after Ernesto left the store.

"Oh, you mean the sunglasses," I say. "Isn’t it odd how that goes with musical talent? Ray Charles, Stevie Wonder and now, Ernesto. We do what we can to take care of him."

She buys a pair of adorable flamingo salt and pepper shakers.

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