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JUMP: Hayfield, MN → New Richland, MN – Next to American Legion: 40 miles
STRAIGHT out of the school grounds where we came in…Arrows back to LEFT onto HWY 30 WEST
Follow HWY 30 WEST to New Richland… arrows to a very tight lot
Shows at 5pm/7:30pm

Town of New Richland so depressed they couldn’t even afford a marker pointing to the downtown. Not that it would have mattered – I think every single one of its storefronts except two were empty.

Also a townie screamed at me when I took the dogs out after the Jump. “Don’t let those animals go to the bathroom in our park!”

(I always get a kick out of that “go to the bathroom” – like the dogs travel with miniature canine commodes which they whip out and sit down upon whenever duty calls)

I smiled at the woman, held up a plastic bag. I never leave home without one. Long time readers of this journal may remember I always used to pick up trash whenever I walked around Monterey. Guess what? I’m in Minnesota and I still do. If it was an – er – unusual habit in California, it’s grounds for commitment to Lake Wobegond Asylum for the Criminally Insane here in the Land of Ten Thousand Lakes.)

At the sight of the plastic bag, the woman grew practically apoplectic. “You think if you pick it up that makes it all right?” she hissed. “It doesn’t.”

Well, gee, lady, I thought. Dunno what to tell you. If a dog’s gotta shit, a dog’s gotta shit.

I wondered why she was so angry. Was it personal? Was she reacting to the fact I was connected to the circus? Does she think circus folks are like carnies, crooks and thieves, geeks and scoundrels, whose only purpose in life is to lift her wallet and desecrate her grass? (Say lady – if I didn’t have a dog, I’d shit on your lawn myself.) Or was this a kind of road rage sparked by the hopeless economy?

In either case, it left me with very little interest in checking out New Richland. (New Rich Land – hah!) so I got in my little red Veedub and drove 20 miles to the city of Albert Lea.

Which I found amazingly interesting. Although probably no one else on the planet would. And of course it didn’t have an espresso bar (the main reason I drove there.) They don’t seem to drink a whole lot of espresso in this part of Minnesota which I find rather odd since there were certainly café’s aplenty north and west of here. I blame the proximity to the Iowa.

Not so very long ago Albert Lea was a very prosperous city. It had an opera house. It had banks. It had a Woman’s College. A lot of industry and manufacturing was based here – it was once the headquarters for what’s now the largest privately owned company in the United States∗.

Left photograph in the pair above was taken in 1940. You’re still looking at a street that makes sense as a business venue, that hasn’t degenerated into a hodgepodge of junk shops, chiropractors, bars, wacky storefront evangelical churches.

Right photograph this afternoon from more or less the same spot shows an almost apocalyptic meltdown of the local economy. Part of it, I suppose, was the food processing plant that burned down in 2003 taking 750 jobs with it. (For a town of less than 20,000, that’s a significant number of jobs.)

That’s only seventy years. That’s not that long.

Anyway, I walked around for several hours entertaining myself by cataloging the arcane ornamentation of the old architectural derelicts and making up stories – there’s this Philip Marlowe-like detective, right? And he’s looking for someone who committed a crime seventy years ago – maybe the guy was a Nazi spy, I don’t know. Ur-Marlowe will receive some vast sum of money if he can bring the perp in, liver spots, leaky prostate and all. Only he can’t find a trace of the perp except then, one night, the forlorn derelict little town …changes... back into the town it was in 1940. (Marlowe is actually entering it through the dreams of an old lady who lays dying in Albert Lea’s satellite Mayo clinic.) Repurposed Tom’s Midnight Garden, dontcha know…

Albert Lea has the big terroir. That’s why I like it.

∗ In 1870 W. W. Cargill moved to Albert Lea so that his fledgling grain elevator and warehouse business could take advantage of the expanding railroad system. One hundred and fifty years later Cargill has diversified into the production and distribution of a staggering assortment of agricultural products – that Egg McMuffin you had this morning? Cargill. The company is now headquartered in Minneapolis.
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Jump: Preston, MN → Hayfield, MN – School grounds: 55 miles
LEFT out of the lot and arrows back to HWY 16 WEST
RIGHT onto HWY 63 NORTH towards Rochester
After you pass I-90, look for a LEFT onto HWY 30 WEST to Hayfield… arrows to the lot
Shows at 5pm/7:30pm

Nothing in Hayfield, so I drove to Blooming Prairie

Nothing in Blooming Prairie, so I drove to Dodge Center.

Nothing in Dodge Center, so I drove to Kasson.

Nothing in Kasson but by then I was sick of driving so I ducked into the local public library where the librarian – big blonde, looks like she should be serving 18 months in the slammer for steroid use on the professional wrestling circuit – eyed me suspiciously.

Civil service or not, this librarian would not pass her performance review in the San Francisco Bay Area, lemme tell you.

For one thing she kept trying to get my car towed. At regular intervals I would hear her on the phone, presumably with local traffic control: “Well, the red car’s been there for two hours then, dontcha know –“

And I would rise from the little desk where I’d been typing, announce, “It’s my car! Do you need me to move it?”

And she’d say, “No, no. So long as you’re in the library, you’re a library customer, you can park there. But it is taking up a parking space.”

There were never more than four people inside that library the entire time I was there. There were six parking spaces.

Also she didn’t seem to like Hispanics. And Kasson – unlike the moribund farming towns surrounding it – had a significant population of Hispanics, possibly because of its proximity to Austin where the Hormel Chile and Spam factory is located.

Whenever a little blond-haired, Howdy-Doody-faced, white child wandered up to the front desk, asking where – say – the Harry Potter books were located, she’d flash her horrible, cavernous smile and gush, “It’s better to teach a man to fish than to give him a fish.” Then she would proceed to try and indoctrinate the hapless child in the mysteries of the Dewey Decimal System.

Whenever a dark-skinned, dark-haired child asked the same question – accent strongly suggestive that English might not be her first language – the librarian would snarl, “Over there somewhere,” then rudely turn her back.

(JB, to whom B told this story, thought it was so hilarious that at the end of the last show, after all the trash receptacles had been cleared away, when a lady approached him with a cotton candy wrapper in hand, asking, “Where can I dispose of this?” he waved his hand expansively: “Oh, just throw it on the ground. The brown people will deal with it.”)
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Jump: Rushmore, MN → Preston, MN – Fairgrounds: 30 miles
RIGHT out of the lot onto HWY 16 EAST to Preston
HWY 16 EAST has a lot of curves and a steep grade – use caution
Arrows to lot
Shows at 2pm/4:30pm

By Winona, hundred twenty or so miles southeast from the spot where we first crossed the river, the Mississippi has broadened considerably. At points it looks to be an eighth of a mile wide. It traces a serpentine path through the small city’s parks placidly masquerading as a lake. A deep lake, true – in the 19th century riverboats steamed the channel as far north as St. Paul.

This part of Minnesota hardly seems to belong to the prairies. The bluffs are spectacular to look at but have provided the raw materials for some fug-lee architecture over the last century and a half. Granite not brick became the status symbol for late nineteenth century builders. More often than not, the predominantly Scandinavian settlers’ masonry skills simply weren’t up to the task. The resulting structures, though often imposing, are almost always ugly:



This is an old flourmill on the banks of Rush Creek in Rushford, Minnesota, Yesterday’s Town. Hideous, isn’t it?

In August 2007 Rushford was the scene of a devastating flood. An unusual precipitation pattern played havoc with much of the Midwest. Rushford’s downtown lay under six feet of water for close to a week, and now half its empty storefronts – many of them hewed from that somber monolithic granite – sport fading, bug-speckled signs in their windows: NEVER GIVE UP.

Thankfully Rushford’s charming one-room library escaped the deluge. It may be my favorite among all the libraries where I’ve tried to write this past two and a half months. It’s crammed with books, overflowing with books, books in boxes, books in the aisles, books functioning as end tables for yet more books. Many wondrous and strange artifacts too like Miss Haversham’s complete collection of dead flowers and a taxiderm owl that’s been wired so that it lights up when you plug it in. No coffee shop in Rushford though which was a drag. A town with a library like that needs an Internet coffee shop.

Maybe I’m just spoiled. Because The Day Before Yesterday’s Town, Wanamingo, had one of my favorite cafés to date, called Area 51. Shortly after I got there, every one of the town’s seven hundred plus inhabitants walked through the door, little old men with snowy hair and sweet unworldly expressions – the aliens’ standard issue Human Suit, I guess.

One by one they filed past the little table where I sat typing away. Half of them stopped. “So glad you’re here!” they’d beam. One of them actually sat down at my table, reached over, patted my hand. “Good luck to you, my dear,” he told me.

Those aliens can see through space and time! What did he know that I don’t know? What was he trying to tell me?
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Jump: Foley, MN → Annandale, MN –Bendix Elementary School: 50 miles
Go out the same way we came in… LEFT onto HWY 25 SOUTH
RIGHT onto HWY 10 WEST
LEFT onto HWY 24 SOUTH to Annandale… arrows to lot on LEFT as you enter town
Shows at 5pm/7:30pm

In other news Drew the Mechanic and JB decided to drive to a strip joint called Fat Jack’s in nearby (sort of) Bock, asked Ben if he wanted to come along.

I’m not Ben’s mother, I wouldn’t dream of giving or withholding “permission” for any kind of an adventure except maybe to a crack house. He asked anyway which I suppose indicates an admirable sensitivity to my sensibilities.

In fact I might have suggested tagging along if I hadn’t suspected that Drew and JB, Midwesterners to the core, would be horribly embarrassed by my presence. Prospect of watching them squirm while I belched and woohooed “Look at the titties on that l’il brunette!”, tucking five dollar bills east and west of g-stringed pubic stubble was very-ry tempting indeed though.

Only the girls didn’t wear g-strings. It was a naked bar.

And the girls didn’t actually dance.

That’s because the girls don’t actually get paid to dance.

In fact, they pay the owner of Fat Jack’s for the dubious privilege of being able to give lap dances and other private – uh – performances in the VIP rooms.

“But that’s outrageous!” I sputtered. (I debriefed Ben fully when he staggered back to the lot a little after 1am.) “That’s totally exploitative! You should have turned around and walked out!”

“It would have gotten cold in the car. Besides, I didn’t bring a book.”

There were five girls, ranging in age from early twenties to about 40. (Forty is old for a sex worker.) They would take the stage at 20 minute intervals, more or less stand there – maybe swaying slightly depending on alcohol intake and what music the jukebox was playing. Display their wares.

“So you got to see a lot of pussies, huh?”

Ben grimaced. “You know seeing pussies under these circumstances is not all it’s – you should forgive the bad pun – cracked up to be.”

The forty year old gave up after five minutes, spent the rest of the night drinking hard at the bar. She’d had stretch marks and piercings in places you don’t want to see holes. She told Ben her story – single mother, two teenage girls, laid off from her job six months ago. I wonder what kind of career counseling she gives her daughters?

In the interests of full disclosure I should note here that just after college I was a topless dancer for a brief period of time. Didn’t do it for the money, did it – well. So I could say I’d done it.

Also topless dancing was kind of a family tradition. Annie danced for a few years after she was fired by UC Santa Cruz upon officially abandoning her PhD thesis on the semi-obscure Italian Renaissance poet Leopardi. Annie went on to write a novel about the experience; Thunder LaBoom paid for her house.

Then my mother started doing it basically because she was terribly competitive with Annie. My mother brought her own unique OCD perspective to the activity, Thanksgiving celebration for some years afterwards enlivened when – after a couple of glasses of vino – she’d demonstrate her trademarked method of gyrating her boobs in opposite directions while holding pencils beneath each breast. “I never, ever dropped those pencils!” she’d crow. “Not once!” (Small wonder Thanksgiving has always been my least favorite holiday, eh?)

Drew the Mechanic dropped $300 on private visits to the VIP Room with one of the dancers. Then he tried to talk her into coming back to the lot with him.

“He was quite taken with her,” reported Ben. “She was the prettiest girl there. Very young. Waiflike. Covered with tattoos.”

I often want to tell young girls who are thinking of covering themselves with tattoos, DON’T! Please. Sure tatts look good while you’re young and your flesh is firm. But honest to God, you spend a lot more of your life being middle-aged and plain (and then old and ugly) than you do being young and beautiful. And nothing looks quite so awful as a flabby tattoo unless it’s a flabby tattoo on top of stretch marks.

“Why’d the scumbag name his club after Shakespeare?” I asked.

“Shakespeare? What are you talking about?”

“Fat Jack?” I waited expectantly. “Hel-lo? Falstaff? Shakespeare's most famous character?”

“Ah! He didn’t actually. This is his fourth strip club; ‘Jack’ was first name of the last mayor who ran him out of town. Apparently he tried to bribe the city council to let him stay. When that didn’t work, he painted the building bright pink and fled.”

“To Bock, population 106. Where they wouldn’t have the money to fight the fuckwad.”

Understand this guy isn’t a fuckwad because he owns a strip club. He’s a fuckwad because he’s not paying his workers. Much as I hate the fucker I have to admire his balls: move to a busy thoroughfaire in the tiny town makes good business sense.
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Don’t much like the suburbs. No terroir thar…

First crossed the Mississippi River up near Aitkin where it was little more than a swollen creek meandering out of Lake Itasca. By Monticello – ugly place, not a place at all, just a box store sprawl by I-94 – the river had widened considerably. They keep the Mississippi River behind a fence so as not to distract shoppers from Monticello’s WalMart Supercenter and its Target Superstore and its multiple pairs of Golden Arches – no! really, they do.

These satellite commuter communities are curiously disperse – miles and miles of the ugliest box houses you’ve ever seen, and a few support businesses scattered here and there that generally include a couple of bars, a couple of gas stations, a couple of auto parts stores, a single supermarket where the lettuce was fresh some time last week. Maybe one heating and plumbing contracter operating out of a cement cell; a General Rental Center. We’re still sixty miles or so out from the Twin Cities, so these people are willing to drive. For eight months of the year through snow and ice!

And there’s still fifteen miles or so of county roads before you hit the Big Neon clustered along the Interstate – the WalMarts, the Targets, the Home Depots, the DQ’s, the McDonalds, the Radio Shacks. The ad nauseams.

Do I sound like a Luddite?

I feel like a Luddite. It’s enough to make me wish the Amish were an evangelical sect.

If there were ever town centers in places like Becker or Big Lake or Monticello, they’ve all been torn down – which attests to recent prosperity, I suppose. When an economy is prosperous, it tends to want to raize its old structures, build new ones in their place, monuments to better times.

This is why the most picturesque places are also the most depressed places. At least until they discover tourism.

I wonder what happens to all those roadside Golden Arches a hundred years from now? Will they be still be standing? Will they be repurposed like so many of the old bank buildings in the towns I’ve passed through? Will people see beauty in them? (Not post-modern, ironic appeal but actual soul-stirring beauty?)

Beauty is, after all, a totally relative concept; it’s not absolute. I see beauty in 19th century Belle Epoche architecture but that’s purely as a function of having read Victorian novels obsessively throughout most of my life: it’s not as though their lines are any purer from an architectural point of view.

I’m just so curious about what comes next. The narrative of history, doncha know. Not my own life.

I’m still kinda debating what to do about LJ. When I deleted it yesterday, it didn’t feel right. But it doesn’t feel right maintaining it either. I’ll go on writing in any case – it is the blight that man was born for, it is Margaret you mourn for, etcetera – but what do I possibly hope to gain out of making it public? Dunno.

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