Road Trip!

Nov. 4th, 2025 10:20 am
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Fabulous Deecey-Virginia trip.

Trip down somewhat problematic as the Poughkeepsie train station was out of parking places, so I had to limp in the rain on mysteriously injured leg a mile and a half from adjunct street parking place to the train, plus my Penn Station train was an hour and a half late due to coastal New Jersey track flooding.

However:



Shaken! Not stirred.

###

The next day was Halloween. We took a stroll around Alex's neighborhood.

Alex lives in a city that was founded in colonial times (though no traces remain of that). For the first 150 years or so, it remained a bucolic settlement surrounded by tobacco fields until time and proximity to the corridors of power in nearby Washington, D.C. transformed it—inevitably!—into a residential commuter hub. (I imagine in those early, pre-WWII days, the commuting was all done by trolley.)

Alex lives in a charming brick house that was built to house the earliest residential commuters. It is the house her husband grew up in.

Some of Alex's neighbors take Halloween very seriously:



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Then it was time for the main event: Trick or Treat!!!!

Skeleton costumes are like the Chanel suit or the little black cocktail dress of the Halloween universe, so I didn't have to pay much attention to my own plumage.

Other members of the household went far more elaborate—in particular, Alex's beautiful daughter H who could easily snag a job as a double when Chappell Roan makes her cinematic debut:





Even after (conservative estimate) 80 or so trick-or-treaters, the Bottomless Candy Bucket didn't give out. Though the stragglers had to make due with Dum-Dums.

###

Most of the places people visit in the Deecey area are closed due to the government shutdown. (And you might think the Trump administration would have better taste than to host a Great Gatsby party at Mar-a-Lago mere hours before food benefits lapsed for 14.2 million Americans due to said government shutdown. But if you thought that, you'd be wrong.)

The ones that are funded through their own foundations remain open, and among those is Gunston Hall, the ancestral home of Founding Father George Mason, whose name I vaguely remembered from the John Adams & Benjamin Franklin bios I devoured last summer.

Before the Gilded Age, American mansions were not particularly imposing:



But this one is located on magnificently beautiful grounds::

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1BYoVZJRwG/

Fun factoids learned at Gunston Manor:

(1) This (to me somewhat hideous) shade of green was the most popular for the houses of the ultra-wealthy in the late 18th & early 19th centuries because the pigment was made from copper verdigris, and thus the paint was very expensive:



(2) Alex is the great great great great great great great great grandaughter of George Mason. She learned this long after she started visiting Gunston Hall! I do not see the resemblance.



The next day, we went thrifting!

Alex is like the Queen of Thrifters, so this was very much like taking a master painting class from Rembrandt.





In the evenings, we watched the BBC's version of Jonathan Strange and Mr. Norrell, which I have seen before but could watch endlessly (even though it completely fucks up the ending), such a dithering fan girl am I.

I was convinced Alex would love it!

And either Alex did, or Alex is such a good hostess that she pretended to with a magnificent display of sincerity to please her guest.

###

Anyway, terrific time. Which will give my heart resistance since the next two and a half weeks are promising to be quite the slog. Sigh...
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A most fabulous visit to D.C.!

Alex is an epic hostess, so the two and two-half days felt like a mini-version of one of those fabulous house parties you read about in British novels: the adorable house that is just like a museum to Alex's quirky, interesting tastes, an enormous range of actual museums—we did the National Museum of African American History & Culture and Hillwood, the Marjorie Merriweather Post mansion where the Fabergé Eggs live—splendid weather; adorable felines; and non-stop conversation, perfectly timed so that the moment it began to pall was the morning I left to come back.

Alex also made it into The New York Times!



She had been to the Science Protest March just before I arrived.

Alex may be the only person in the world who's perfectly recognizable from the back of her head.

###

She & her husband live in the same house her husband was born & brought up in, & every inch is filled with the most delightful kitsch. Kitsch is very much my own design aesthetic, so I scampered 'round the domicile, taking Art Photos™ at every opportunity:





Alex adopts people—by which I mean if she sees an opportunity to help them thrive, she helps them thrive! I see this in the way she opens her house to young people—presently, she has a very adorable young Russian woman, Arina, living with her—and to some extent, I see it in her friendship with me. It is a really lovely quality—and a rare quality.



So, the African American Museum...

It is a great museum, but I had some issues with the way the permanent exhibition is designed.

The permanent exhibition recreates the history of slavery—which is not necessarily the history you think you know. The exhibits are arranged chronologically, starting with the journey from Africa and the Middle Passage in dark, narrow halls in the lowest concourse of the building and culminating with the contemporary experience of African Americans in the somewhat brighter higher concourse—although given that, ironically enough, D.C.'s Black Lives Matter Plaza was being dismantled the very weekend I was in town, the contemporary experience may not be that much brighter.

There is no escape from the permanent exhibition, no easy way to drop in and out of the pieces you might specifically want to see. The design immerses you in the entire experience—and while I understand the intentionality of that design, it does make it difficult for people like me whose attention span gives out after about an hour and a half, no matter how worthy I may deem the overall experience.

It's an exhibition crafted for first-time visitors, in other words.

Repeat visitors are going to have a difficult time with it.

And even this first-time visitor developed a mild headache—it was so dark, so claustrophobic! And, of course, I understood that this headache was a measure of the exhibit's success—the suffering of the enslaved translating physically into my own discomfort.

Except—I was in a position to terminate my discomfort.

And wandered out somewhere around the beginning of Reconstruction.





Hillwood, in contrast, was all opulence & comfort as befits the spring-&-fall mansion of one of the obscenely rich.

We had a delightfully enthusiastic & mildly wacky tour guide:



Marjorie Merriweather Post became a connoisseur of 20th-century Tsarist art, something by accident—her third husband was FDR's ambassador to Russia. And the pieces were absolutely magnificent:





But I couldn't help thinking that in essence, they were not all that dissimilar to the lovely whimsies scattered around Alex's house.

###


Alex said one other thing I want to remember.

Alex is a good cook. A comfortable cook. And we were talking about cooking, how challenging menu planning can be, & she said, "Well, of course, if you know your way around a kitchen, you don't see a loaf of bread, you see four sets of sandwiches, and one serving of French toast, and possibly bread pudding."

In other words, cooking isn't about recipes; it's about ingredients.

Words to live by.

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Autumn is my least favorite season. I hate it even more than I hate winter.

Winter has, at least, the virtue of being one note, maybe F minor (hello-o-o-o-o Vivaldi!)

In contrast, autumn is just one long dalliance in minor keys, a veritable immersion in saudade: The trees flare up in one last defiant burst of color, the light—the beautiful light—seeps away, & you wonder, What did I do last summer, & why didn’t I do more of it?

In just a couple of weeks, they’re gonna end daylight savings time. It will get dark at 4:30 p.m.. Life will hardly be worth living…



Last five days were action-packed.

Atlantic City was weird, but then I knew it was gonna be weird, and anyway, the days I spent there were less about Atlantic City & more about spending time with Belinda, the myriad ways my chameleon-like persona essentially bent and folded to accommodate Belinda.

Don’t get me wrong: I like Belinda.

But she thinks we are closer friends than we are, a pattern with people that has repeated itself multiple times throughout my life mainly because I am positively geisha-like in my ability to mold myself to other people’s expectations. I am the best interviewer you’ll ever meet because people like to tell me all their secrets! Go figure, right?

Belinda has had a hard life. What I like best about her, in fact, are those glimpses of potential that reveal what she might have been like had her life not been so hard.

As it is, her difficult life has made her very managerial; thus, she was filled with advice about things I hadn’t asked for her advice on. You need to eat protein in the morning so your hands won’t shake, she told me. You can’t put leggings in the dryer! You need to go through yr credit card bills & other financial transactions at least twice a week to make sure no one’s trying to pull a fast one on you.

Did I mind her advice?

No, not really.

Though that doesn’t mean I listened to it.

I kinda figured it was mostly prompted by an unconscious desire to show off her survivor skills & perhaps a smidgeon of affection because on the drive home, she began reeling off all the fun things we could do in the future.

I thought (but did not say), Probably not.



I was kinda disappointed Atlantic City wasn’t seedier. The place is merely ugly.

All the old buildings have been torn down; in their stead are featureless stucco-façade anono-structures where I guess members of the service industry live & shop. The famous boardwalk is hardly worth strolling, though I suppose that could just have been the time of year, late September when the ambient light isn’t right for boardwalk strolling.

The beach was just awful. A dingy grey strip fronting the loudest & most charmless of the casinos, Hard Rock.

Of course, I’m not a big fan of casinos anyway since I don’t gamble and honestly don’t understand why anyone gambles, at least on slot machines since you can get exactly that same rush—flashing lights, goofy sound effects—playing Kandy Krush or Bejeweled Blitz on your phone. But the casinos in Vegas are interesting from a design vantage while the casinos in Atlantic City are just… tawdry.

Only one casino, the Tropicana, put any kind of energy at all into its décor. I do find this faux sky and cheesy colonial architecture kinda charming:



On the second night I was there, Iggy called in a fury: Mabel the cat had shat on the carpet.

Mabel has a strong vindictive streak and was obviously displeased her slave had disappeared.

Really, Iggy? I thought. You are calling me over this kind of—pun intended—petty shit?

It was clear he wanted penitence & remorse, so, of course, I gave it to him: You have the right as a property owner to be angry over incidents that jeopardize the integrity of yr property, blah, blah, blah.

The phone call stressed me out. Elevated cortisol levels make you pee a lot, hence I did not sleep well since I was hitting the bathroom every couple of hours.

Then the next morning, Iggy sent me an email with pix of the offending shit from every conceivable photographic angle.

This was actually pretty funny.

Really, Iggy? Are you out of your fucking mind? You had me at the phone call. Is your life with those demon-child spawn & their mother, whom you are still obviously in love with, so-o-o-o frustrating that you find the need to take your frustration out on someone you deem to have less power?

I wrote him back an eloquently crafted note, using the word “gratuitous” & detailing all the ways in which I am the most exemplary housemate he could possibly imagine.

I'm not pissed or anything and I know the tone of email is not the best way to convey ideas so don't think I'm angry, Iggy wrote back. I’m not. I do think you are a good housemate.

Then shove it, asshole, I thought.



Saturday, I presided over the petting zoo & the pony ride at the Weekend of Wallkill, the cutest little country fair you could possibly imagine. I made a great little video of the Doggie Costume Contest, which sadly, YouTube will not allow me to post here because copyright infringement. (I used Who Let the Dogs Out as the background track.)



Yesterday, I had coffee with my beloved Barbara Angell, who is upstate visiting the parents of her unbelievably gorgeous daughter Aemilia’s BF.

Here are Barbara & I when we were young & gorgeous ourselves:



And here we are 45 years later:



After that, I went out Harris/Walz canvassing in Ellenville, a strange little town on the outskirts of what was once the Borscht Belt.



And now—sigh!!!—I must work.
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On the night of my birthday, I dreamed I was staging some sort of circus performance for all the people who lived in the very small town in which I lived, only I hadn’t rehearsed the circus performance, so all of it was coming off like the play Briony stages in the opening pages of Atonement (on my mind because Ichabod & I listened to the novel’s opening chapters on the drive up to Ithaca.)

Simultaneously, as I was performing on the stage, I was also climbing up a steep rope ladder with a three-year-old RTT. Ah, dream physics!

From the stage, you can see how boring people are finding this, I thought—and indeed from my vantage point on the stage, I could see a sea of people stretching, yawning, talking to each other, doing everything but keeping their eye on the performance. One man was complaining to another, I loaned her my horse. And she isn’t even using it as part of the show!

I wasn’t using the horse because I had forgotten its name.

And somehow, it would be cringe-embarrassing to inquire its name!

Fuck that, I thought. And called out to the man, Tell me the name of the horse again, puleeze!

Toothpick Caravansary, he said.

So, I called out, Toothpick Caravansary! And instantly, the horse came galloping up to me, ready & eager to perform! It was a huge horse, snow-white, with wings like Pegasus.

And then I woke up.

###

I had a fabulous time chasing the eclipse though I can’t honestly say I found very much of it.

I’m also feeling much too lazy to write it all up.

On trips, I don’t do long-form writing (which requires solitude, coffee, & the ability to scratch myself without the fear that somebody’s watching.) Instead, I do Instagram Stories. (And speaking of audiences—see dream above—on Instagram Stories, I have quite a different audience. A much larger audience! 😀 )

So herewith is my Instagram story. Laid out like Tarot cards! With annotations.



I’ve been using Airbnb for 10 years now. And never had any bad experiences. Until this trip!!!!!

Did I allow this to interfere with my determination to have a fabulous trip? No, I did not!

Exceeding escape velocity! Always fabulous! You just roll when the space shuttle rolls.



I mean, like WTF??????

Scuzzball Georg had canceled because he claimed the shower had broken. We assume you’ll want to take SHOWERS while you’re here, right? he wrote cattily.

Okay, granted, I don’t know what kind of injury the shower had sustained. Possibly the Hand of God had reached down from the sky and snapped the shower in half!!! Or perhaps the space aliens who had Airbnb’ed the flat just before we were due to arrive had vaporized it. I don’t know!

But given the extreme difficulty of all my previous communications with Georg and given the fact that once, long ago, while I was living in the Cement Bungalow, absolutely destitute, and the shower broke, I fixed it myself—it took exactly two and a half hours and a trip to the hardware store for $20 worth of parts—I strongly suspected that Georg was fucking us over. That some of his creepy friends wanted to use this flat as Eclipse Base Camp, and he decided we were expendable. Because honestly—if I can fix a shower, anybody can fix a shower.

The second asshole Airbnb host had made some kind of out-of-system arrangement with a current guest and had forgotten to take her place off automatic confirmation. She thought it was important to explain this to me at exhaustive length as if in this way, she could win my sympathy and my agreement that, in fact, she was really the victim here. FUCK YOU!!!!!!!!!

Airbnb really needs to vet its hosts better.



Unfortunately, none of the video Instagram Stories I uploaded will transfer here as videos, so you will not truly experience lovely Cascadilla Creek, with all its ducks and other assorted wildlife, flowing by the really palatial Airbnb where we ended up. But it was quite lovely. And when I win Lotto, I’m gonna live out the remainder of my life in that Airbnb.

###


It was mostly cloudy at Lake Canandaigua on Eclipse Day itself. RTT’s delightful pal Maddie accompanied us; she works for the Fish & Game Department, and was actually on call throughout the day, so we got to eavesdrop on her many exciting work-related calls—That’s not really the way to lick beavers when they infest! said very earnestly—on the drive up.

Once there, we got to nibble the luscious picnic kindly provided by [personal profile] lookfar while we waited to see which would come first: the eclipse or the rain. I wandered around the rapidly filling parking lot, asking random strangers: Do you think it’s gonna clear up???

One couple who had driven up all the way from Scranton, Pennsylvania—shoutout to Office fans!—assured me that they had been studying cloud maps for days and that Lake Canandaigua had the best prediction for cloud-free skies!

Another couple assured me that at the exact moment of the eclipse, the skies would part—

How do you know that? I asked.

Because that’s science, they told me.

The clouds did break for one brief instant during the pre-game warmup, allowing me one quick snap of the Dragon Eating the Sun.

But the skies were one large cloud at the moment of totality, so no corona, no diamond ring, no night sky beaming unfamiliar constellations.

However.

It got dark. Really, really dark. And cold.

Even though all around us, we could see that it was still light:



And that was really spectacular.

And then, the moment totality had passed, it got bright again with no crepuscular transition.

And that was really spectacular, too.



Moosewood Restaurant is famous on account of the Moosewood Cookbook franchise.

The food was excellent.

But the waitstaff acted as if they were doing us an enormous favor to let us eat there.

So, I don’t think I would ever go back.

Friendly waitstaff are an enormous part of my eating out experience.



The Corning Glass Museum is truly one of my very favorite fine arts museums. And seeing it was fabulous.

But this visit wasn’t anywhere as magical as the visit Carol & I made in 2019—which made me realize that much of the magic of that visit was actually an actualization of Carol’s and my friendship.

Sadly, our plan to meet up twice a year for exciting roadtrip adventures was derailed by COVID. It seems unlikely we will ever kickstart it again.

###

When we got back from Corning, there was yet another Airbnb misadventure—not my story to tell—but anyway, [personal profile] lookfar & her party judged it prudent to head back to D.C.

Fortunately, it proved very easy to score another Airbnb, really cheap and perfectly adequate.

This was good because I was feeling overstimulated, desperately in need of retiring to the Sunken Place where I could watch endless episodes of The Real Housewives of the Potomac.

That Robyn!!!! What a bitch!!!

###

The next morning, I got up very early and saw these guys in front of the house:



“They call ‘em ‘ghetto deer’,” said the guy who had stopped next to me to watch them, too.

“Kind of an offensive term, don’t you think?” I asked pleasantly.

The guy was black.

He blinked a few times before replying slowly, “You know, you’re right.”

###

Ichabod & I jiggedy-jigged back to the Hudson Valley, whence I put him on a train for a few nights of age-appropriate fun in the Big City.

The kiskas not seem to have suffered overly in my absence but were pleased to have their Ambulatory Can-Opener back.

And today is my 72nd birthday. It is raining, but all the pink trees are in full bloom.

###

Here’s what I look like as I am composing and uploading Instagram Stories:

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The little Airbnb I’m staying in straddles something called the West Side and the Cottage District.

The West Side is the place where the poor people (for which read “Black people”) lived and are now being driven out by soaring real estate prices. The Cottage District, too, one assumes in the 1990s. But gentrification began there earlier than it began on the West Side.

The Cottage District is quite adorable:



Interesting to me that these little abodes with their steeply slanting roofs—hello! Average snowfall 70 inches a year!—were built in the early 1800s when Federalist architecture was all the rage in more southerly areas of upstate New York.

I did end up walking around the downtown neighborhoods yesterday.

If it weren’t for the fact that for eight months of the year, Buffalo is buried beneath the aforementioned 70 inches of snow, I might let myself fantasize about moving here.

Like I say—I have a soft spot for deeply blighted one-time industrial meccas that are struggling to reinvent themselves.

###

The Expo of Oddities and Curiosities was pretty cool!

(Don’t have much time to write about it this morning since shortly I must take off for deepest, darkest Canadia, but I’m sure I’ll write more when I get home.)

It’s a niche, of course.

Vendors, customers, and wares pretty much fit a mold:



(Expo management advertised something along the lines of: No animals were hurt in the making of these artifacts! Meaning: Everything is roadkill! But I didn’t believe that for a single second.)

Wares varied from the “odd” because “old,” to the “curious” because "strangely beautiful," to the out-and-out "repulsive"—to me but possibly no one else, I should emphasize: Remember! I’m old.

(I have tons of pix but no time to Photoshop them just at the moment because imminent adventure in Canadia!)

I will say this person was the best artist:



But not for the black-and-white kitsch that clearly she was the most invested in.

She did these… dolls.

And the dolls were amazing. Disturbing. But amazing:





Of course, the classics still speak to us, too:



And now...

Have I mentioned I'm going to Canadia?

I'm going to Canadia!
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My go-to garden store has decided planting season is over. (Unless you want to plant broccoli, cabbage, or cauliflower. Which I don’t.)

Not a squash seedling to be had.

So in a little while, I’ll trek on over to the Most Fabulous Garden Store in All of Dutchess County to see if they have any spaghetti squash seedlings.

And if they don’t, I’ll give up on the Spaghetti Squash Project for this year.

###

Also, Newport, Rhode Island, is definitely out so far as upcoming road trips are concerned.

I priced lodging: Three nights comes to $1,200. For an Airbnb or a hotel.

I like old mansions.

But I don’t like them that much.

###

This puts a return trip to the Bread & Puppets Theater at the top of my road trip list.

Assuming there still is a Bread & Puppets Theater.

The torrential rains that washed out Highland Falls in the Hudson Valley stalled over Vermont. The photos are crazy. This was Montpelier two days ago:



Glover, home of the Bread & Puppets Theater, is 50 miles north of Montpelier.

Who knows whether its thousands upon thousands of magnificent puppets survived, housed as they were in an ancient ramshackle barn?

Peter Schumann, the Theater’s creator, doesn’t approve of art as a commodity and therefore doesn’t care whether or not the puppets survive.

I care whether or not the puppets survive.

I’ve been combing the Internet for any crumbs of info.

But, of course, there aren’t any. It’s the type of human interest story that makes it into the second section of The New York Times maybe three weeks afterward: One of the casualties of the recent storm…

###

Even if the puppets did survive this time, they won't next time. (Or maybe the time after that.)

These rains are the New Normal. Climate change, doncha know.

Plus, their creator believes in transience.

A philosophy I admire when it comes to sand mandalas.

But not when it comes to puppets.







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Hit 70° again yesterday, and I couldn’t stay inside, no matter how much work I had to do.

It’s very strange to be sleeveless outside when the angle of the sun and the leafless trees are telling you it’s winter.

After my tromp, I went to Michaels, which is the only place I thought might still sell photo albums. (I was right.)

Michaels was packed. Their Christmas displays were up:



In the parking lot, I spied the signs of the coming rapture in the sky:



I figured out what’s wrong structurally with Super Sad True Love Story.

It’s that Shteyngart invests enormous amounts of energy and imagination, setting the novel up as an exaggerated satire, and then about two-thirds of the way through the book, he wants readers to start relating to his primary protagonists as though they were real human beings facing wartime atrocities.

And I mean, no. Just no.

It doesn’t work.

Would it work if Shteyngart were a better writer?

Or if the two primary characters were more sympathetic? Because honestly, from the very first page, I wanted to grab Eunice by the hair and smash her head against a concrete wall and skewer Lenny with a sharp stake up his anus.

I continued reading the book because Shteyngart is so very, very funny.

But I kind of resented it when Shteyngart abandoned the humor in favor of angst—although Shteyngart is as excellent at angst as he is at humor. He is a very good writer, and I don’t think any writer can pull this kind of pivot off. The whiplash it produces is too disorienting.



Also, I started sorting through the CD pix so I could put together a photo album for Annie.

There are something like a billion of them, and most of them are not of Annie.

Here are some from 2002.

I’d forgotten RTT was once a Cub Scout!

I dimly remembered the trip we made to Tustin. The terms of the divorce agreement I made with X-Husband 1 was that Ichabod spent all his time off from school with his Dad. I was a complete idiot when I negotiated that divorce agreement—for example, I did not ask for child support! In fact, that was a point of pride. I can support my own kid, I said sniffily—or words to that effect.

Anyway, I preferred to drive Ichabod to Tustin rather than put him on a plane because any excuse for a road trip, right? And in 2002, I brought RTT along.

As an aside, I will note that however much I dislike MaryAnne, she has always been extremely warm and gracious toward RTT.

In fact, the two daughters of Bill’s second marriage and the son of my second marriage kinda consider themselves brother and sisters.

Here they all are in Tustin:





Very sweet.

And very long ago.

They used to do a neighborhood 4th of July parade in Tustin!

Bill tells me they don’t anymore.

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Mostly we had the Big Fun on the road trip.

We hit the dope parlors of Great Barrington on the drive up—which allowed us to enjoy Vermont in a happy daze.

We stayed in a strange little town called St. Johnsbury, close to the Canadian border, which had a heavy but not unpleasant Stephen King vibe.

St. Johnsbury is ancestral home to the Fairbanks Bros who ran Vermont for about 70 years back in the 19th century. Thirty years before the Civil War, one of the bros invented something called the platform scale. The platform scale immediately revolutionized railroad transportation since the weight of mercantile goods transported by rail could now be determined with accuracy. The bros earned a shitload of money, some of which they cycled into cultural improvements for the town.

They built a natural history museum. Kind of like a bonsai version of the American Museum of Natural History. It even uses the same kind of Gothic brick, imported from the Southlands at considerable expense, one assumes:



They also built an atheneum, which is a fancy word for “library.” It’s stocked with artworks from (deservedly) obscure and forgotten Hudson River School painters. Of course, the Fairbanks would collect bad Hudson River School artwork!



We arrived in St. Johnsbury on Easter. Easter doesn’t really enter my brain very much. It’s like, Oh. That’s a real holiday?

But because it was Easter, everything was closed. We drove around and around for close to an hour following Yelp reviews, passing the one single open restaurant again and again.

It was a Chinese restaurant.

“I’ve had really bad experiences with ethnic restaurants in small towns,” Ichabod would tell me, driving past. He didn’t want to use the term “Chinese restaurant.”

Finally, when it became apparent we weren’t gonna find any place else, I remarked, “You know, my people have a long history with Chinese restaurants on Christian holidays.”

And we stopped.

And the food wasn’t bad.

###

Next morning, we drove to Glover, site of the Bread & Puppets museum:



After that, we drove across a covered bridge and down a long, twisty, narrow country road to Montpellier, the state capital, and tromped around for a bit. Montpellier has a population less than 8,000; it’s the smallest state capital in the U.S., and it was so weird tromping around this tiny village and thinking, This is Vermont’s citadel of power!

Vermont is filled with old hippies who migrated here from New York City sometime in the late 20th century. I imagine it’s also filled with native-grown Live Free Or Die types and that the two demographic pools try to ignore each other. That’s the way it works here in the quaint and scenic Hudson Valley except the interlopers (of whom I am one) are of more recent vintage.

On the way back to St. Johnsbury, we stopped in at a maple sugar farm. We missed the harvest by just one week:



That night we went down to the local brewpub, got companionably smashed, and talked, as we almost always do when we spend significant one-on-one time together.

Mostly, Ichabod talks.

About his childhood.

Which it’s always difficult for me to hear because he tells me he didn’t have a very happy childhood, and I can remember going out of my way to provide him with a happy childhood, trying so desperately, desperately hard

“I never felt safe,” Ichabod told me. “I mean, you and my Dad are very much alike in certain ways. And one of those ways is that you and he are the only two people I know who consistently question the fiber of reality in a profound way—”

“Right,” I say. “I always figure that I’m really at a New Jersey garden club meeting, and at any moment, I’ll finally be able to see that. You can blame that on my mother, your Grandmother Lynn. She took me to see The Manchurian Candidate when I was nine years old. And, you know: There’s a reason I married your father.”

“I never felt safe,” Ichabod repeated.

Break my heart a little harder, I thought.

But of course, this isn’t about me. This is about him.

###

But I think that’s the reason why I subsequently had such a bad night.

It was one of those nights when I could not fall asleep.

Oh, I must have slept. I didn’t toss or turn.

But my consciousness did not recede into the blissful void. I never left the room.

Consequently, I did not feel fit to drive the next morning.

Which meant poor Ichabod had to drive us all the way back to the Poughkeepsie train station. A 300-mile drive.

We stopped in White River Junction—“White People Junction,” Ichabod quipped, and I gotta say, Vermont is the whitest place I’ve ever seen: I saw one Black person the entire 36 hours I was there—to have brunch with one of his old Stanford pals who had relocated there:



Thing is it’s obvious how Not Happy Ichabod is right now. I blame it on his job—his workload is unbelievable; his management—in terms of getting help or mentorship—nonexistent.

And the job forces him to live in a small town where he does not feel at home and which is very limited in terms of making cultural or social resources available to him.

So, he’s depressed.

Exogenous reasons for depression are very much Not a Thing right now.

No, if you’re depressed, it’s gotta be because of some deep internal psychological issue—like you didn’t feel “safe” as a child.

Anyway, because he’s feeling depressed, he’s not taking care of himself in fundamental ways like diet and exercise. And I saw this, and my heart broke for him, but I didn’t say anything because any word from a mother to adult children on matters like these immediately translates into reproach, or harsh criticism, or an attempt to guilt-trip.

And besides—it’s not like he doesn’t know he’s not taking care of himself around diet and exercise. What possible new information would I add to the equation by pointing this out?

But the drive home was a slog. Didn’t help that the weather had abruptly turned: It was fuckin’ snowing! In late April! So not even the passing landscape was fun to look at.

In retrospect, I probably should have decided to stay home when Ichabod called me to tell me he wanted to come out for my birthday.

It’s not like there aren’t dozens of great things to sight-see here. And that way he could have slept 14 hours a night. He needs to do that! When he’s prepping for trials, he only gets four hours sleep a night.

But I really wanted to see those puppets! That desire had been simmering away on one of the mind’s back burners for months, so when he asked me, What would you like to do…?, I blurted it out.

Oh, well.

We did have that one great day.

Madeleine is now living in Queens, so he was off to hang out with her another day until he headed home.

I cried after I let him off at the train station.

I wish I’d been a better mother.

But you can never be a better mother. Because as a mother, what you focus upon is not repeating your own mother’s mistakes. And that only leaves you more room to make your own mistakes.



Yesterday, I finally toddled off to the garden. (I think that’s it for the snow this spring. I hope that’s it for the snow this spring.)

I dug up half of my lower plot, cleared the strawberry patch, and replanted the strawberry trailers.

The D.H. Lawrence bio had arrived in the mail while I was gone, so I took to my bed with that and spent a low-key evening in bed, reading, nibbling grapes and cheese, and attempting to watch the second season of Russian Doll.

The second season of Russian Doll is not very good.

And now I must commence the next Remunerative Project before toddling off to the garden to dig up the other half of the lower plot.
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So. The Bread & Puppets museum.

It was a bit like discovering the first cave that decorated its walls with charcoals of dawn horses.

Or the ruins of Pompei in an earthquake fissure.

Or the Erl King’s treasure at the base of the mountain.

Or Alice and the Dormouse and the Mad Hatter hiding out from the Nazis in a tunnel underground.

I don’t know what it was like.

Except that it was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen.

This old barn in Vermont with thousands upon thousands of the most amazing paper maché creations.

###


Some of the puppets were very large. Others were very small.



Here’s Ichabod, standing next to… is it Thomas Jefferson?—for scale



The puppets are arranged by shows they first appeared in. Some of those shows were performed back to the 1960s.





















(The above is a very, very small representation of everything we saw.)

Most of the puppets had been created in the service of political street theater.

“Like the San Francisco Mime Troup!” I remarked to Ichabod.

And he said, “What’s the San Francisco Mime Troup?”

And I was reminded once again how transient and ephemeral are all the little cultural markers the chronosphere uses to define each human moment.

But at least one set of puppets had been created to reenact the biography of the German Romantic composer Robert Schumann—a rather odd topic for a puppet play, no?





Immensely strange.

Immensely beautiful.

And all just there.

In this hippie commune on the outskirts of Nowhereville, Vermont.

Slowly disintegrating.

Because the artist, Peter Schumann (maybe a family connection to the composer?) doesn’t give a shit whether they survive or disintegrate.

No pains are being taken to preserve them.

Outsider art at its purest, I suppose: Defiant. There is nothing you can do to turn me into a commodity.

###

Thing is that no matter how much I may love a museum, I can’t stay inside one for more than an hour and a half at a time. It messes with my head. It’s a little the way I imagine standing inside a nuclear reactor might be.

So we communed with the puppets for an hour and a half.

I had actually been afraid I wasn’t going to see the puppets at all. The Bread & Puppets museum is a modest tourism attraction, open June through November, according to its website. There are tours!

But the rest of the time, it is open by appointment or chance.

We had tried and tried to make an appointment. But the puppeteers don’t like email and seldom pick up their phones.

So, we just showed up.

And hoped for the best.

We lucked out!

If I went up to Vermont for a week—and I am thinking I just might if not this July, then some July—I would visit the puppet museum for an hour and a half every single day.

But I'd never stay longer than an hour and a half.

And there’s much more I could write but I’ve run out of time this morning.

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Dreamed I was in a very strange industrial city with Jeana and a little girl who was somehow related to me. Some paternal relative or another had just had a baby, and they wanted to show me a photo except the photo display technology, while ostensibly an iPhone camera, had evolved into something deeply weird, and they couldn’t get it to show the picture, which was somehow my fault.

She doesn’t like us, Jeana told the little girl. (True enough in the non-dream life.)

Then I ran into Bill Hare who told me Jim Breece was vacationing in the city. We met up with Jim who was eating a strange carnivore meal that consisted completely of oversized turkey legs. More stage business with the weird camera, which had a filter consisting of an enormous oversized yellow crystal through which I was trying to snap pictures of Jim eating his meal.

You know, Jim always had an enormous crush on you, Bill told me.

I was somewhat dumbfounded by this info.

And then I woke up.



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I had a fabulous time at the Jersey Shore, just fabulous.

Forty-eight hours filled with all the things I like best. Namely: Lying out in the sun, reading, interesting cuisines, murals, economic geography, wild life, moon rises, ice cream, bourbon, reality TV, and Art Photos™. My friend Flavia spent a significant chunk of her childhood here, so I caught that fascinating dual perspective of The Way Things Were Then vs. The Way Things Are Now.

The Atlantic Ocean has a very different sense to it than the Pacific. It’s a different color, for one thing. A much darker, more somber blue:



The first night, we had fabulous Ethiopian food:



And then we went to the World’s Best Ice Cream Place and scored five pints of the world’s best ice cream:



Next morning, we set forth on a tour of the Asbury Park boardwalk.

Now, I only knew Asbury Park from Bruce Springsteen, and I am not—rare among Americans of my vintage, I know, I know—a big Bruce Springsteen fan.

But I fell utterly in love with the Asbury Park boardwalk:







The old convention center cum Grand Arcade is still partially in use. It has this amazing faience exterior embellished with all sorts of architectural whimsies, now in disrepair:







The inside with its rows of oversized windows has something a Gare de Lyons feel. (Photo above.)

On the other side of the Asbury Park boardwalk is the old casino, a cavernous space that’s currently being used for some really interesting art installations, including Great Paintings reimagined as modern scenes:



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On the far end of the casino, a lone musician played his sax:



From Asbury Park, we tromped into Ocean Grove, a village that started out as a Methodist Bible camp, and—get this!—still has hundreds of little tent cottages, clustered around an enormous, gloomy Methodist meeting hall known as the Great Auditorium:





Deeply fascinating to me because Pacific Grove, the little town right next to Monterey where I lived for 12 years, also started out as a Methodist Bible camp, though in Pacific Grove, the tent dwellings eventually evolved into tiny jewel-box Victorians.

Until 40 years ago, it was illegal to drive a car in Ocean Grove on Sundays! That's how Methodist the town is.

I could go on writing about the fabulousness of the Jersey Shore for days, but if I did, I wouldn’t get any work done, and my cat would starve.

Two other things worth noting:

Just after the sun set, I said to Flavia, “Oh, look! There’s a cat in the dunes!”

But it wasn’t a cat, it was a fox! Three foxes, in fact—they’re crepescular animals. Must have been juveniles, probably littermates, because they were clearly playing with each other. Adult foxes are solitary animals. We watched, entranced, for 15 minutes or so:



Then, after it was dark, we went down to the beach and watched the Harvest Moon rise out of the ocean. I have never seen a full moon rise out of the ocean before! The photo doesn’t capture the complete optical illusion, unfortunately. The bright planet to the right and above the moon line is Jupiter:



Anyway, the Jersey Shore. I am a fan!

Baltimore

Aug. 23rd, 2021 03:34 pm
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Baltimore was the Big Fun.

I had a delightful time there although, of course, three days—really one day and two half-days—is not enough time to do anything more than skim the surface, and as a big fan of The Wire, I was a bit disappointed not to hear Omar whistling The Farmer in the Dell from around a corner or visit Stringer Bell’s CopyMat.

Still. The American Visionary Art Museum is a sui generis in my admittedly not extensive experience with curated art collections. I would go back to Baltimore just to visit it again. World-class acquarium, too. And it was fun just walking around, trying to figure out what part of what I saw was unique to Baltimore and what part was the vision of some frustrated city planner, thinking, What can we do to get people to come to Baltimore without thinking of “The Wire”?

I met up with [personal profile] lookfar there. She is excellent company! Having a sympatico traveling companion definitely enhances the traveling experience. We each experienced A Small Setback in the course of the trip—she lost a beloved earring that she had just bought! I had one of those insomniac experiences I have from time to time—and I think had either of us been by our solitary, these setbacks would have been enough to invoke the dreaded Pall.

But together, we were able to disburse the negative vibes by planning and normalizing—we would simply go back to the American Visionary Art Museum and she would buy another pair of earrings! I would drink more than my customary two morning cups of coffee and sleep on the train! Thus, the setbacks were mere blips on the Big Fun panorama.

Some pictorial highlights:

I walked down Charles Street from the train station to our hotel in the Inner Harbor. Baltimore’s Pennsylvania Station has this oh-so-bizarre and what-were-they-thinking statue pondering its generic Beaux Arts façade:



Charles Street, Baltimore’s great east/west dividing line, took me through the pleasant Mt. Vernon neighborhood, which is filled with parks and elegant brownstone mansions, now subdivided into apartments and offices. This church (which I thought might be modeled after a forelorn sandcastle its architect once dribbled on some horrible seaside vacation during his lonely and neglected childhood) is actually some sort of Methodist cathedral. No, seriously!!!!!!



The Mt Vernon neighborhood is filled with Himalayan restaurants for some reason.

Here is the Inner Harbor. It reminded me a great deal of that dirty scrap of San Francisco Bay alongside Oakland’s Jack London Square.



Three things I noticed right away.

(1). Remember when electric scooters were popular in every American city with a population over 100,000? Most American cities with populations over 100,000 did away with them over liability issues—because if you had an accident on one, sure you’d sue the scooter company. But you’d also sue the city because deep pockets!

Baltimore did not get rid of the scooters. Scooters remain immensely popular in Baltimore:



(2) People in Baltimore still throw their cigarette butts on the street. You hardly ever see cigarette butts on the streets of NYC anymore. But the streets and sidewalks of Baltimore are littered nwith them.

(3) Baltimore has a very diverse population. But—from this one outsider’s view at least—it had a bit of a The City and the City vibe to it. You’d see white people and Black people strolling outside, enjoying the wide promenade that leads along the waterfront. But you didn’t see white people with Black people. Very few integrated couples or friendship groups—this in sharp contrast to NYC, which is the city I’m most familiar with.

In fact, [personal profile] lookfar and I spent half an hour Saturday afternoon watching kids play in a fountain that had been turned into an impromptu water park. And the kids of different colors did not acknowledge each other. I have watched similar scenes in NYC parks, and whatever the grownups may think of each other, kids of a certain age who are playing in close proximity are quick to make friends. But not here.

###

Here are [personal profile] lookfar and I taking off for the American Visionary Art Museum. Don’t we look fabulous?



[personal profile] lookfar’s hair endears her everywhere she goes! I think maybe a hundred people stopped her on the street to exclaim, I LOVE YOUR HAIR!!!!!!

She has great fashion sense, too! Altogether, an exemplary travel companion.

The American Visionary Art Museum is beyond fantastic. A relatively small collection, thank Gawd, because I looked intently at every single piece and therefore reached Total Museum Exhaustion relatively quickly—I absolutely love museums, but being inside one is a little bit like being inside a nuclear reactor for me because if you look at things, really look at them, it is very intense.

My two favorite exhibits:

The Fart Machine:



Surrounded by fart art!!!!





And then this tropical jungle that was apparently devised for a Bergdorf Goodman window back in the days when the department store windows along Fifth Avenue were veritable museums in and of themselves:





What the hell could such a window display have been selling?

And then there was the museum gift shop, which simply was The Best Museum Gift Shop EV-AH!!!!!!!!

I went wild! Purchased fabulous new eyewear!





And Zoltar sends his best ❤️LUV❤️ to [personal profile] smokingboot:



I could write tons more but not today. I have other things to do.

Oh—one more thing:

Nafisa called this morning to offer me a COVID booster shot.

“Don’t you have to wait a certain amount of time after you get the second shot? If you got Moderna or Pfizer?” I asked.

“We don’t give according to interval,” she replied. “I love you. I am concerned to you—do you say ‘concerned to you’ or ‘concerned for you?’”

Nafisa lost her mother to COVID. In Sudan. From whence she and her family had just returned.

Still, I am fairly certain she is wrong and that the proper interval is eight months.
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In my dream, I wasn’t human; I wasn’t even a carbon-based life form. I don’t know what I was, except I was playing some sort of game, and the squares of the game were placed over water, and I knew if I fell into that water, that would be the end of my—well, no, not life. But consciousness. So I had to strategize my next move very, very, very carefully.

###

Woke up and felt sad. Then I read this story and started to weep and couldn’t stop for 15 minutes.

###

Life is fine. I’ve completed all the prep for Friday’s road trip and most of the prep for the California trip. Must decide whether I want to visit Aimee in Vermont after I get back from Baltimore. Generally, road trips are my favorite things, but recently, it seems like all I really want to do is sit and space out, and I can’t decide whether that’s torpor I should fight or some kind of natural meditation impulse I should indulge.

More than most other people I know, I have a real need to sit with my eyes unfocused, staring out windows, for an hour or so every day. It’s like a physiological need or something.

The garden in late summer is beautiful in its colors and terrible in its reminders that this, too, is passing:





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More hideous white stuff from the sky.

Should all melt by noon. This was a snowstorm in the middle of a heat wave! Some complex meteorology there, but I don’t feel like explaining it.

Turns out it would cost $100 to UPS the Art Installation. It’s fragile, would require acres of foam peanuts etc etc.

No way I am going to spend $100 shipping the thing. I mean, yes, yes, yes, it is adorable, but I know Max would prefer the $$$$.

I had a long conversation with the Shipping Place clerk about the economics of shipping. Turns out that this is UPS and Fed Ex’s response to Amazon’s virtual monopoly on b2b shipping. Courier delivery services can’t complete, so instead they shift the costs on to hapless personal shippers so that they can still maintain a profit margin.

Anyway, now I’m thinking the Art Installation becomes a graduation present that I hand-carry to CA in May.

Haven’t yet made plane reservations for the May trip. What I would really like to do is make a road trip to CA, which would necessitate acquiring a new-to-me vehicle – which I am 60% convinced I’m gonna do anyway – and finding someone else for whom the idea of a Rilly Good Time involves stopping in every roadside attraction on Route 80. That last one seems impossible. Really, no one but me likes road trips.

###

In other news, the Saturday Tax Bwana clusterfuckery factor is under control so that it’s now entertaining. The other three preparers have good senses of humor, the wisecracks roll. All we need is a laugh track, and we’re a sit com!

And I’m trying to figure out whether there’s any compelling reason why I shouldn’t spend the rest of my life in bed streaming Monk episodes.

So far the only reason I’ve come up with is that there are only 125 hours of Monk episodes.

So, I’d be cutting my life span to six days. Or I’d have to watch a lot of reruns.
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Spent all day yesterday in a deep, depressive funk – which had nothing to do with the awfulness of Everyday Above Ground and everything to do with the rain, which just would not relent!

It rained, and it rained, and it rained. And then it rained some more. And so, I spent all day thinking about those poor people living in Lagos and Somalia, or dying of slow, painful, wasting diseases in other parts of the world. Or dying of quick, murderous assaults.

Any way you slice it, life is suffering and pain. There really is no payoff for being alive.

This morning, though, shafts of wan sunlight are going mano a mano with the cloud cover, and I’m feeling 10,000% better. Life may be marginally endurable. (That’s a highly qualified conditional.) Because without life, there would be no ripe peaches or crème brulee. Without life, there would be no Real Housewives of New York!

###

Sometime during the fever pitch of yesterday’s anomie, I got into a political argument with an acquaintance. That sort of thing nearly always results in self-reproach and yep, even a little bit of self-hatred the following morning. I mean, honestly! Did I really think I could change his mind? (Snort!) No, I just love the mellifluous sounds that come out of my throat when I open my mouth. I have such a large vocabulary. I enjoy showing it off.

“So, you really think there’s a difference between Republicans and Democrats?” I sneered.

And I would have won the argument, too, except my acquaintance wasn’t in the least bit interested in arguing; all he was interested in was venting his immense hatred for Donald Trump.

See, I’m not entirely sure I hate Donald Trump.

I mean – in a way, it’s as if some Borscht Belt comedian has been elected President, you know? Donald Trump is such an endless source of laughs; it's hard to hate someone responsible for so much mirth.

I know, I know -- I probably should hate him. Legislative failures notwithstanding, he has managed to do a fair amount of damage in his short term of office, notably in the fields of consumer, worker, and environmental protections.

Here’s the thing, though: You know the most effective way to combat rising levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere?

Plant more trees.

It really is that simple.

But such a low-tech prescription would make no money for anyone, which is probably why no one on the Left is touting in as a solution. No, the solution clearly must involve Expensive Technology and carbon taxes that will inevitably shift the costs of cleaning up the planet onto the shoulders of the poor.

(Meanwhile, that Expensive Technology is waiting impatiently in the wings for the current tech bubble to pop so that it can become the next economic bubble.)

Ever wonder why the Democratic Party – then in power – did so little to change Wall Street after the 2008 housing crash? It’s because Remocrats, Depublicans – they both like money! And they view periodic breakdowns of the financial system kind of like forest fires – necessary so that new little bubbles will grow! So that they can make more money!

###

But anyway, who gives a shit about this kind of stuff? Certainly not me.

I’m too busy trying to solve the mystery of the strange little town of Windsor, New York where I espied this strange little shop a year or so ago:

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Here’s a close-up of that front window:

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Look at all those amazing dead things! Don’t you want them in your living room? I know I do!

Who is Amanda April June, why does she have a shop in Windsor, and why is that shop always closed? Also why is there a shop completely dedicated to Lionel toy trains in Windsor? These are the real mysteries. Not the rise and (inevitable) fall of Donald Trump.
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This photo reminds me of An Infinite Summer, a beautiful, beautiful short story by the Brit novelist Christopher Priest in which – for no apparent reason - characters are frozen into tableaux, which only some of the characters can see.

Look at the three of us! Aren’t we beautiful? And we will remain preserved inside this timeless moment for always, the older woman, the two beautiful faun-like children, the sun setting at just the right angle to enhalo the girl and the boy in unearthly radiance. Us. Forever.

###

Also in T-burg, I passed a sign on a back country road crudely lettered, Colonial Encampment.

Naturally, I had to investigate.

I drove three miles along this deeply rutted dirt road (extremely grateful for my new tires and new suspension system) and found myself in this camp where between 50 and a hundred men, women and children dressed in 18th century clothing were running around on top of this hillside pretending to be European settlers. It was pretty cool! They were having some kind of musket fire-off in the nearby forest. The fog swirled; the woods echoed. Neat!

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Then I sped off to Ithaca where I watched a simulcast of the National Theater’s newish production of J.M. Barrie’s Peter Pan.

The real Peter Pan has naught to do with the bowdlerized Disney version but instead is a deeply weird piece of fancy filled with archetypes and profound anthropological insights into the land of childhood imagination – although now that harried parents are thrusting iPads into their two-year-olds’ hands, I suppose children no longer have imaginations: They’re just one more demographic to market to.

I first read Barrie’s novelization of the play – Peter Pan and Wendy – when I was five years old or so, and the book has stayed with me:

Mrs. Darling first heard of Peter when she was tidying up her children’s minds. It is the nightly custom of every good mother after her children are asleep to rummage in their minds and put things straight for next morning, repacking into their proper places the many articles that have wandered during the day. If you could keep awake (but of course you can’t) you would see your own mother doing this, and you would find it very interesting to watch her. It is quite like tidying up drawers. You would see her on her knees, I expect, lingering humorously over some of your contents, wondering where on earth you had picked this thing up, making discoveries sweet and not so sweet, pressing this to her cheek as if it were as nice as a kitten, and hurriedly stowing that out of sight. When you wake in the morning, the naughtiness and evil passions with which you went to bed have been folded up small and placed at the bottom of your mind and on the top, beautifully aired, are spread out your prettier thoughts, ready for you to put on.

This, my friends, is a deeply, deeply creepy image.

… and thus it will go on, so long as children are gay and innocent and heartless.

Which means the cycle stops tomorrow since children whose parents let electronic devices tell them stories are merely consumers-in-training who will grow up to be deeply dull little conformists.

Which I suppose is good for collective intelligence.

But not for art.

The casting in this production was especially interesting. In nearly every production ever performed of this play, Captain Hook is essayed by the same actor who plays George Darling, the children’s father. (This tradition harkens back to Gerald du Maurier who starred in the very first production of Peter Pan. Du Maurier was the father of the novelist Daphne – herself no stranger to deeply weird fiction – as well as the uncle of the boys who inspired Barrie to write the play.)

In this production, Captain Hook is played by the woman who plays Mary Darling, the children’s mother.

In full pirate drag, she is ghoulish:

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On the drive home, I finished listening to the audio book of Fates and Furies. Yes, yes – I read the book. But I wanted to figure out exactly how Lauren Groff managed to achieve the effects she achieved, and listening to the words somehow gives me a better handle on that.

###

Got home, went off and tutored Samir.

When I got home from tutoring Samir, Max called from Alaska.

“It must be getting darker there earlier now,” I said.

“Yeah,” Max said. “Gets dark around midnight.”

“Wow!” I said.

“When I first got here” – June – “it was light pretty near 24 hours a day,” Max said. “I mean, yeah. Degrees of light. Dusk. Twilight. But light.”

Max will be returning from Anchorage to Berkeley in 10 days. Nathan asked Max to be his best man, so that means Max will be returning to the East Coast for the wedding – which I think is supposed to take place in New Haven some time around Christmas. (Yay!)

“You should come!” he said.

“I think most properly that invitation is supposed to come from Nathan,” I said.

Also Max is considering applying to UCB’s public policy school when he graduates from law school. My alma mater!

“Since public policy in the criminal sector is what I’m specifically interested in,” he said.

“It’s the second best public policy school in the nation!” I cried.

“Nope. It’s the best,” he told me.

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This may be one of my favorite pictures of Max ev-uh:

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“Saudi Arabia is set to execute some kid today,” said B. “A Shiite kid. Eighteen years old. You know what his crime was? Two years ago, when he was going to school in Michigan, he attended a rally that was critical of the Saudi government.”

“And the moral of that story is: Never go to school in Michigan,” I said. “That is just insanely barbaric. And stupid.”

“Humans have been executing other humans for insanely barbaric and stupid reasons for thousands of years,” B said.

“Yeah. Right. Well. That’s why I never get too bent out of shape whenever I’m confronted by the prospect of human extinction,” I said. “Human beings are obviously a failed experiment. Sometimes I wake up, and I think, It’s all just too beautiful – this sky, these trees, these wonderful sunsets. And then I remind myself: This is sentimentality wished on you by the limitations of your sensory receptors. If you could perceive these phenomena as they really are, you wouldn’t think they were beautiful, you wouldn’t think they were horrible. They would just be. Frankly I think it would be a good thing if some Stephen King mutation virus wiped out the human race.”

“Not me,” said B. “I think it would be a good thing if the aliens invaded. And the human race learned to work together against a common enemy.”

###

On Thursday, I took RTT out driving. And he did reasonably well. Although clearly, he didn’t like it much.

After that, I chauffeured him around on various errands and slowly watched his mood darken for no appreciable reason – much as my own mood occasionally darkens for no appreciable reason.

We are very much alike, RTT and I. Although he is much more charismatic and therefore extroverted than I am.

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In the evening, B and I went to the Zerbini Family Circus at the T-burg Fairgrounds. Quite the nostalgic little circus, and one does wish all those animal rights protestors and PETA people would go fuck themselves. I traveled with a circus for seven months; I’m in a position to know. Circus people don’t mistreat their animals: For one thing, they’re tied to those animals by strong bonds of affection; for another, those animals are their livelihood, which for practical reasons, they’re not going to undermine.

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Yesterday, the BoyZ were both at work, so I went exploring. Well. Not New World exploring. I drove to Montour Falls where I hadn’t been for at least 20 years.

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See this house? Twenty years ago, I wanted to buy it. Twenty years ago, I was actually in a position to buy it. The problem, though, is that it was in Montour Falls! What the hell do you do in Montour Falls?

The falls after which the town is named are directly in back of the house:

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Twenty years later, the town is slowly, slowly gaining a little prosperity on account of its proximity to Ithaca, which has become a hot real estate market.

The Montour Falls library has real Tiffany windows:

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In the evening, RTT’s girlfriend came to town, specifically to accept my invitation to take them out to dinner.

(I’m afraid I couldn’t take them out anywhere fancy since that asshole still hasn’t paid me my money, and it’s looking like Small Claims Court is in my future.)

The RTT gf is extremely beautiful and extremely thin, so thin, in fact, that I wondered about anorexia. But no – I saw her put actual food in her mouth and chew it. And her teeth are flawless, so no bulimia.

Her name is Marissa, and she seems very sophisticated! She just got back from a month in France studying at the Sorbonne – she and RTT Skyped for hours every day! I like her, and, of course, I love RTT. Still, watching them last night – RTT had invited several members of the crew over, so the house was like the set of Entourage – I wondered how she could put up with this: RTT was forcing her to watch multiple episodes of Wet Hot American Summer as a testament of LUV.

“Don’t you think Marissa would rather be watching the original Breathless with Jean-Paul Belmondo?” I asked.

“Nah, she is loving this!” said RTT, and Marissa laughed. Of course, she’s only 20. Maybe she doesn’t know what she’d rather be doing yet.

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Came back from my trip and thought about writing and wanted to write – I had adventures! – but did not write.

And I’m not exactly sure why.

Trips are good. Trips reaffirm you as the primary stakeholder in your own life; the center of your own narrative, if not of the universe.

I want to go on more trips.

But I guess I’m so innately lazy and undisciplined that a week is all it takes for me to lose a habit.

###

After a couple of days, the small adventures of everyday life began to take over the brain cells allocated to trip memories.

For example: One afternoon, I was tromping fast or running – whichever one you want to call it – through the Vanderbilt Estate when I was passed by a car. Not a limo, but a black car – Crown Victoria maybe? And inside that car sat the Former Democratic Candidate for Congress. This was really confusing to me because I’d heard through the grapevine that she was desperately ill, too ill to leave her bed, or so, I’d been told.

If the Former Democratic Candidate for Congress saw me, she made no sign.

When I got home three hours later, there was an email: The Former Democratic Candidate for Congress had just died.

And this was just very weird because it strongly suggests that the Vanderbilt Estate is either the hellmouth or the pearly gates, I’m not exactly sure which.

###

And yesterday, which I’d put aside for writing about my trip, I could not wake up. All day long I had that really frustrating feeling of trying to jumpstart my mind as though it was a power mower or a chainsaw, and feeling it sputter and spurt as fuel was fed but remained unsparked.

Finally, I gave up and watched a six-hour documentary on the Grateful Dead.

I would never describe myself as a Deadhead, but I did see the Dead in concert innumerable times. Dead concerts were always a great place to do psychedelics. Plus I really liked the fact that here was this huge underground phenomenon that had received little or no acknowledgement from the mainstream press and PR machines; a whole transient economy and community that came together and then dissipated in the time it might take a handful of itinerant Buddhist monks to make a sand painting. Think Burning Man without the hype.

Still. Jerry Garcia as a Christ figure is stretching it.

###

Before I forget – there are three pieces I’d like to write in the coming week:

(1) The Kathy Griffin saga. Think what you like about the tastelessness of swinging a severed and bloodied head – hey! It worked for Salome! And for Judith! – this was a woman who was prepared to do battle on the enemy’s own turf.

Vulgar?

Sure.

Vulgar to a Trumpian extent, in fact.

Fighting fire with fire is not an inherently bad thing, so I was deeply puzzled when Griffin was castigated by both the Left and the Right.

The Left loves to eat its own.

But this one makes me wonder whether the real reason the Neanderthals lost out to Cro Magnon Man wasn’t because they were too polite.

(2) A deconstruction of the Hillary Body Bag trope. I have a list of all of Hillary's (alleged) bodies, and it’s far more extensive than Seth Rich and Vince Foster. But I'm wondering if there's another episode in American political history where a particular politician was accused of so many back channel murders. I have this sense that it’s a hoary narrative, but I just don’t know enough history to support that contention. So I’m fishing around for 19th century or 20th century examples.

(3) Why Americans don’t care about climate change. And I suspect that Trump called the zeitgeist exactly right here: Most Americans will actually concede that scientists are right and that climate change is happening. But they don’t give a shit. Why? Because climate change, indeed environmental issues in general, are widely perceived to be rich people’s causes. As though one morning, the One Percent woke up and realized, Uh oh! We’re sharing a planet with those dirtbags. We gotta do something.

Naturally, every strategy for reducing greenhouse gases has a disproportionately large effect on the poor.

How many tons of carbon does the Lear Jet that Al Gore uses to travel between climate change conferences generate anyway? But you’re not gonna find Al Gore reserving a seat on Amtrak any time soon.

There’s a huge amount of cognitive dissonance involved with behaviors like this, and mainstream Americans are not blind to it.
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Spent the first part of Mothers Day in a snit because the offspring were pretty late with those adulatory phone calls plus neither of them appears to have the slightest inclination to tattoo “Mom” in a big heart on their Popeye muscles.

###

Went running – and almost literally ran into Donnelly Paulson, himself running for the Dutchess County Legislature. Although, unfortunately, not from my district.

I suspect Donnelly spends so much time walking his dog on the grounds of the Vanderbilt Estate because he sees it as a way to connect with potential voters. He’s not shy about introducing himself: “Hi! I’m Donnelly Paulson, and I’m running for…”

When I encountered him yesterday, though, he was a bit shaken up.

“I’ve just spent 20 minutes talking to a couple of Trump voters,” he told me. “And they don’t seem to care one whit that Trump has broken practically every one of his campaign promises.”

I shrugged. “Even Nixon after his impeachment managed to maintain a 28% approval rating. You figure Trump’s gonna retain about 30% of his base no matter what. They didn’t vote for him because of his campaign promises. They voted for him because he pisses off the right people. They voted with their middle fingers, you might say.”

Donnelly shook his head. “I just don’t understand it.”

“Well,” I said. “You can’t afford to alienate them. Just because they voted for Trump doesn’t mean they won’t vote for you. In local elections, people tend to vote for candidates they know and like personally. Politics is really secondary. Most people know Jack Shit about local issues.”

Indeed.

Donnelly is waaaaaay hunky. Hunky to the point that were I 15 or 20 years younger, I might seriously entertain a crush. Tall, dark-haired. Did I mention tall? Tall! Looks a bit like George Mallory after whom my LJ is named. A social studies teacher at Poughkeepsie High School, which has got to be one of the noblest and hardest jobs ever invented.

In the evening, Pat and Ed invited me over for dinner. And that was nice, too. Excellent food, stimulating conversation.

So all in all, a good day.

Except at one in the morning, I woke up in a complete panic.

I was actually so freaked that I had to drink myself back to sleep, which is always problematic.

The panic seems to be revolving around my planning for my Memorial Day trip. Except there’s no reason for me to be panicking over my Memorial Day trip. I like Carol; I’m certain I will have a good time hanging out with her. I like Chicago; I’m certain I will have a good time hanging out there. Whistler’s Mother is back at the Chicago Art Institute! Plus Toulouse-Lautrec and Sunday on the Isle of Grant Jatte! And the Thorne dollhouses!

There’s some part of me, though, that’s getting more and more and more reclusive. Like really, I’ve got my living space configured precisely the way I like it, so why should I ever leave?

I suppose that’s the part of me that’s raising all that fuss at one in the morning.
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I have this theory about people who live fabulous public lives.

The Laws of Karma, so implacable, so immutable, decree: They’re gonna get theirs. So either they die hideously, or they live out the declining years of their lives in an alcoholic twilight, muttering variations on It’s the pictures that got small! or something horrible has already happened to them that has rendered them utterly incapable of taking any real joy in their fabulous public personas.

Think of Scott Fitzgerald. Think of Andy Warhol essentially drowning to death at New York Hospital after routine gall bladder surgery when nurses didn’t bother to track his IV fluids.

Edna St. Vincent Millay was another prime example.

The bohemian It Girl of her day. Flame-haired, diminutive. Screwing her way to the top. She penned what in retrospect is the anthem of that whole 1920s Jazz Baby generation:

My candle burns at both ends;
It will not last the night;
But ah, my foes, and oh, my friends --
It gives a lovely light!


The only thing she ever wrote that still stands up. Unless you're a fan of the Staten Island ferry.

Note that is not the metaphor of the candle that makes this doggerel a delight. It’s the ah, my foes versus oh, my friends.

What’s the difference between “ah” and “oh”? one finds oneself wondering a full century afterwards?

###

vincent17I visited Millay’s Berkshires retreat yesterday. This was not by design: I was exploring northeastern Columbia County – which as it turns out, does not have a whole lot to explore unless you like gas stations and gun shops – and happened to see one of those historical markers, so stained and overgrown with moss as to be practically illegible: Noted American poet, resident in this hamlet of Austerlitz at her home “Steepletop” from 1920 to 1950.

Oh, why not? I thought.

“Now, remember – not only will you be seeing Edna St. Vincent Millay’s house, you will be surrounded by her things. Her possessions,” the docent gloated.

Kind of as though Mrs. Danvers was leading a house tour of Manderly!

I actually knew a little about Millay because I’d read Nancy Millford’s Millay bio Savage Beauty some years before – not because I’m a fan of Millay’s but because I loved Millford’s Zelda Fitzgerald bio so much.

Millay was an androgynous little heartbreaker. Cut the wide swathe through the Greenwich Village of the 1920s, sleeping with anyone she fancied and/or who could advance her career. Gender was no impediment. Edmond Wilson, Scott Fitzgerald’s best friend, proposed to her; she turned him down.

At the height of her creative vigor, Millay married a much older man who took over all the practical aspects of her life. One night, driving drunk up the very hill over which I’d gingerly navigated my car – it’s not an easy hill, and the dirt road is deeply rutted – she made a wrong turn and drove off the embankment. Broke whatever it is she broke. Became a morphine addict. Also continued drinking a lot.

Eventually, her husband weaned her off the hard stuff. But she continued to drink. When he died of lung cancer in 1949, Millay barricaded herself in the house. Refused to see anyone. That would have been easy to do: This part of Columbia County is remarkably free of human habitation; the nearest village as such, Spencertown, is a considerable distance away.

One night in her 58th year, she fell down the stairs and broke her neck. Her lifeless body was found 12 hours later by a caretaker.

These stairs?” I asked the docent, eyeing the staircase I’d just come down.

Those stairs,” the docent agreed. “Nobody quite knows why. They think maybe she had a heart attack.”

Oh, puleeze, I thought. She was piss drunk. And had probably just popped a handful of sleeping pills. She missed a step and toppled.

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Have to say, seldom have I been in a house that has such obviously bad vibes.

The place was just awful.

It was all I could do to keep myself from bolting, but I figured, Hey, you already ponied up the $16; you might as well see it.

But it was just dreadful, dreadful, dreadful.

There was the library in which she kept her 2,000 or so books and the daybed on which she lounged for photographers, picturesquely chewing at the top of a fountain pen. Reference books, full sets of the classics, contemporary “literary” novels from the 30s and 40s, surprisingly little poetry; some books in tattered dust jackets, some in mildewing Morocco leather. Portraits of her three Muses: Shelley, Sappho and – quite oddly, I thought – Robinson Jeffers.

There was her bedroom with its girlish white chenille coverlet and its empty Chateau d'Yquem bottle propped on the mantelpiece.

The most oppressive room in the house was actually her bathroom. Which was pretty innocuous-looking. Lots of white tile. A bidet. A line of ancient pill bottles. One of them still had pills.

“This used to be two rooms,” the docent announced. “But we knocked a wall out. It used to be her closet and her bathroom. And when we first got the property, the closet was still filled with her clothes!”

UGH!!!!

Millay left the property to a sister who’d proceeded to lived in the house for close to 50 years, sleeping in the bedroom on to which the closet had opened. The thought of coexisting with a dead sibling’s wardrobe for half a century feels indescribably creepy to me.

One could write an excellent ghost story about Steepletop, I thought.

Something along the lines of Elizabeth Hand’s very brilliant short story The Erl King. Only about writers. The docent would be the protagonist.

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The grounds aren’t quite as creepy. I wandered out to the remains of the swimming pool where the portrait above was taken in happier times. The pool was very small, hardly bigger than a bathtub. You wouldn't have been able to swim in it. Cracked now, and overgrown with algae, and surrounded by huge, aggressively blooming stalks of digitalis.

“You didn’t like the tour?” asked another one of the paying guests who’d wandered out to the swimming pool too.

“Oh, I wouldn’t say that,” I lied. “It was… interesting!”

We began talking.

She was a poet, too. Had just won some sort of award – she told me what it was but being completely ignorant about and – let’s face it – more-or-less uninterested in poetry, I’ve already forgotten its name.

She’d also recently completed a stint at Skidmore’s Summer Writers Institute. Four weeks. Clarion-type critiques.

“Program’s amazing,” she said. “They work with prose writers, too. Do you know who Rick Moody is?”

“Oh, of course.”

“Claire Messud? Mary Gaitskill? Russell Banks?”

Russell Banks was Lucius’s college roommate.

You should do it,” she said impulsively. “They give scholarships –“

“Oh. Well, uh, I…”

This is why you turned off the road today,” she insisted. “So I could tell you about this.”

Huh. Maybe.
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The Biggest Buddha in the Western Hemisphere lives about 15 miles outside Cold Spring.

Cold Spring was literally a boomtown back in the 1860s. The West Point Iron Company and Foundry, right on the riverfront, manufactured something called Parrott Canons, early precursors of AK47s, field rifles towed around on little platforms. Think of them as the quadriplegics of the munitions world. They won the Civil War!

Today, the mansions of the mining moguls and munitions manufacturers lining Main Street have been repurposed for tourism. It’s a delightful collection of antique stores and restaurants, moderately priced, too, in comparison with the inflated price tags in the antique stores that line Warren Street in Hudson a/k/a Williamsburg-on-the-River, 70 miles to the north. I still beat myself up for not jumping on the genuine Dior blazer I saw there last summer, raspberry shade with only slightly torn lining, on sale for $50. True, the sleeves stopped four inches or so before my wrists, and I wouldn’t have been able to move my shoulders in it. But hey! Dior!

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A huge vein of iron extends all the way from Connecticut down into central Pennsylvania, running right through the Hudson River Valley. Present-day Fahnestock State Park was home to more than a dozen mines, and if you wander off-trail there today, you’ll run into hundreds of adits and winzes and inclines that nobody has bothered to guardrail off. Sixty percent pure black magnetite but lying under Precambrian granite gneiss, it was hard to extract. When iron was discovered in Michigan and Minnesota in the 1880s, the New York iron mines were largely abandoned, though Thomas Edison tried to revive them by inventing a magnetic ore separator. Didn’t work.

The Chuang Yen Monastery lies right in the heart of the old iron-mining country.

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Buddhism is like Communism in some respects. There’s a huge difference between the way the religion is practiced in various countries, and those differences reflect what one might be tempted to call a national character. Thus, Buddhism in India is a kind of ritual magic show while in Tibet, it’s a nutty ongoing party that’s invited all the gods and gods of the animistic Bon religion it superseded, and in Japan, it’s a somber faith based on self-abnegation and asceticism.

Chinese culture above all else is pragmatic, so Chinese Buddhism is very concretistic. The Chinese are focused on the here-and-now; they’re not all that concerned with the hereafter – note that they don’t have specific past or future tense verb conjugations. The lessons of a religion like Buddhism, so strongly rooted in transience, were difficult to convey without an army of visual aids; hence most of those statues of Buddha and his pals you’ll see in the Metropolitan Museum come from China or from Chinese schools of Buddhism that had migrated some place else.

Chuang Yen is a Chinese Buddhist installation. The name “chuang yen” actually translates as “majestically adorned,” so it contains lots and lots of statutes and drawings – including the Grand Buddha who is three stories high. I preferred the ancient, 1,000-year old Buddha, who has his own building:

buddha9


I think the 1,000-year old Buddha may actually be the china Buddha in the cabinet, which, of course, you can’t actually see in this photo. But, remember, it’s all about insubstantiality and transience, so who cares, right?

Yes, yes – I meditated.

No one ever taught me to meditate, so I’m not sure I’m not sure I do it the right way.

I focus on my breathing… But more than that, I try to deconstruct the sensory stimuli: Can you ever get to a point where you recognize those patterns you see not as colors or spatial markers but as brain signals? Electricity running up and down neurons? Anyway, being a big fangirl of dissociation in general, this is the ultimate detachment experience I crave, and I did it for about half an hour.

buddha11


The grounds were quite lovely too. I spent an hour or so hiking through them. Numerous little trails. Birds and frogs galore. And who do I have to ask to get permission to have my ashes interred on the Thousand Lotus Memorial Terrace? ‘Cause this is definitely where I’d like the corporeal remains from this time round the block to end up.

But I have to have to say the most interesting thing on the grounds is the koi in the Seven Jewel Lake. I've never seen so many fish in one place before. They’re like sharks. Despite signs cautioning visitors, This is an ecologically balanced lake: Please Don’t Feed the Fish, someone’s feeding them because as soon as they spot you at the pagoda, they teem toward the shore. And they’re hideous. Most of the them seemed to have devolved back into being common, ugly, ground-feeding carp, the kind that you don’t want in Lake Michigan. Maybe that’s what ecological balance does. And they're telling you that's a good thing?

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